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|Single message by Martin Wynne Topic: Beginner 2nd (or 3rd) time around|
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Oh dear, Andrew.
So much has been written about all this in recent years on the various forums, some of it by me. I don't think I have the will to write it all down again. I suggest you join the Western Thunder forum for a lot of friendly advice, especially from Richard Lambert of this parish (Dikitriki on other forums). See for example:
1. Many/most builders of 0-MF pointwork use 32mm plain track flexi from C&L or Peco. It can be joined to 31.5mm gauge by warming the rails to soften the chairs, or by building a short length of gauge-transition track. The wider gauge is useful for gauge-widening on sharp curves.
2. Gauges for 0-MF are available from Debs of this parish, and from Roxey Mouldings:
image linked from RMweb
3. It is difficult to find any dimensions on the C&L web site. Hopefully this will change with the new owner. So we don't know the flangeway gap width on their assembled crossings.
They are assembled with high-temperature solder so not easy to modify. In any event attempting to change the flangeway gap on an assembled crossing is almost certainly doomed to failure, you would simply wreck it. 10 times easier to start again from scratch.
In any event they are all made straight-over-straight, whereas a lot of your pointwork is curved, so they are not going to fit very well.
4. Plain turnouts can be built to 31.5mm gauge on 32mm templates with a bit of fudging. However this won't work for diamond-crossings and slips, which must be built on templates printed for the matching gauge, otherwise the rails won't align properly. Generally it is much better to print templates for the actual gauge in use.
Here's a picture of 0-MF track on Richard Lambert's Heyside layout:
image linked from RMweb
Here's a diagram showing why the modern 0 gauge wheels drop into the crossings on traditional GOG-F (F7) track:
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