Templot Club Archive 2007-2020
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posted: 6 Mar 2011 10:31 from: Nick R
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I've built a few turnouts before but the most complex to date was a Barry slip. I've now started on a double slip (or double compound in GWR speak) and have the outer slip rails and vees in place. My question is, where do I go from here? With a simple turnout the order of construction is fairly obvious and I would continue in a way that allows me to gauge each new added rail from those already in place. Maybe I can't see the obvious, but it's not clear to me what the best order of assembly is to ensure that I can always gauge new rails from existing ones. What's your recommended order for building one of these? Nick |
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posted: 6 Mar 2011 11:24 from: Paul Boyd
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Hi Nick If you have a look at my website at http://www.paul-boyd.me.uk then go to the "Rural Railfreight" page, you'll see a photo sequence of a slip in build. In this instance, I started with one slip rail and one Vee to ensure alignment with a turnout leading in to the slip, then the second Vee, and then work out from that. This method means that I worked across the formation. If I was building a slip in isolation, I would start with the Vees and work outwards, with the slip rails going in last. Under no circumstances would I work by placing both slip rails first... A double slip is a complex piece of trackwork and it's quite easy to end up with doglegs, so I find that sighting along the formation with the aid of a mirror is absolutely essential. That was a tip I picked up from an interview with Norman Solomon in MRJ. Hope this helps. |
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| Last edited on 6 Mar 2011 11:25 by Paul Boyd |
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posted: 6 Mar 2011 12:09 from: Nick R
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Thanks, Paul, some nice trackwork there and, yes, the photos of the build are very helpful. I should perhaps have said that my second slip rail is currently only fixed with plastic chairs at the ends where it can be gauged from the vees. The centre part is still floating so that it can be adjusted to match the rest. Like your example, I started with a slip rail to ensure alignment with an adjacent turnout then added both vees. Nick |
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| Last edited on 6 Mar 2011 12:10 by Nick R |
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posted: 10 Jan 2012 12:53 from: Richard_Jones
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Paul Boyd wrote: If you have a look at my website at http://www.paul-boyd.me.uk then go to the "Rural Railfreight" page, you'll see a photo sequence of a slip in build. Hi Paul, great photos - I wish I could make progress like that - will use your photos to help me on my EM version (see Singleton West Sussex in "share & show" and Rivet & Ply track - rivet size in this forum) Two queries: 1) what do you stain/paint/varnish your sleepers with? 2) where can you get the solder cream (T79 ?) in a syringe (as in one photo) from? many thanks Richard |
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| Last edited on 10 Jan 2012 13:12 by Richard_Jones |
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posted: 10 Jan 2012 17:05 from: Phil O
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Hi Richard 179 C solder cream can be found here from C & L http://www.finescale.org.uk/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=56 I use Ronseal wood stain for my timbers. Cut a load of (ply) crossing timbers to length or pre cut sleepers in an old butter tub chuck some Ronseal in, put the lid on give it a good shake, have a look to see if they have all stained, if yes drain off the excess into another tub for re-use, if not repeat the first step. When satisfied I tip them out on a couple of sheets of news paper to dry. I use Dark Jacobean Oak stain. If you leave them to dry in the sun they will eventually start to bleach as per the prototype. Use when happy with the result. Cheers Phil |
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posted: 10 Jan 2012 18:30 from: Paul Boyd
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Hi Richard Phil has already answered the solder cream question - incidentally, I keep mine in the fridge as it lasts much longer. It's in a pot keeping the instant glues company  I found from experience, professionally, that if kept at room temperature the solder particles can separate out from the flux making it pretty useless. In my previous job we disposed of numerous half-full syringes and tubs until I persuaded the boss to spend about £90 on a fridge for the shop floor!For the timbers colouring in the photos you referred to, I quote from my hand-scrawled note on the jar: 20:1 De-ionized water:IPA Dollop of black India Ink with some nut brownA lot less smelly than wood stain! Cheers |
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posted: 10 Jan 2012 19:11 from: Raymond
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I think you must be referring to solder PASTE, which will separate out over time and dries out too. Solder CREAM comes in syringes, at least the stuff I use does, and does not separate out or dry out over reasonable time lags. I do keep the new unused sysringes in the freezer though and thaw them out when ready for use. After that it sits on the bench until it is used up, unless you know soething that I do not, in which case, please enlighten me. Regards Raymond |
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posted: 10 Jan 2012 20:38 from: Paul Boyd
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Hi Raymond Solder paste and solder cream are one and the same thing - I referred to it here as cream because that's the term that seems to be used in the model railway world. There are many types of flux used, and many grades of solder, but essentially it all boils down to balls of solder suspended in some kind of flux. If you search for "solder cream" in both the RS and Farnell websites, you are taken to the pages displaying solder paste. What is referred to as "solder cream" here tends to be a finer grade (small solder balls) in a thick-ish flux which gives a creamy consistency, whereas larger balls in a resin flux, for instance, would give a more granular consistency - that's the one that seems to have a greater tendency to dry out and settle out. In my professional life, I've bought many syringes of solder paste that are a similar consistency to Carr's solder cream, although with a more active flux, as well as tubs of solder paste that would be hard pressed (literally!) to go through a syringe without many PSI of air pressure behind it from a proper dispenser. The bottom line is that how quickly it dries or settles out comes down to how well the chosen flux is able to support the weight of the varying size solder balls - thick flux, small balls - it lasts forever, whereas thin flux with large balls settles out almost whilst you're watching - that's called slumping and is a real pain if you don't populate and flow a PCB within a reasonable time frame. Keeping the flux cold makes it more thixotropic so the balls can't settle out - that's why I keep it next to the Branston's pickle and the crème fraîche  Cheers |
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posted: 10 Jan 2012 21:04 from: Martin Wynne
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Solder paste and solder cream are both usually called SMT paste and intended for electronics. The solder is normally a eutectic 2%-silver alloy for excellent wetting and flow. The silver content makes it very expensive. The low-residue flux is non-corrosive and doesn't need cleaning off. The one which is different is traditional solder paint. This has an active water-based flux, and much coarser grade of ordinary 60/40 solder particles. It is a lot less expensive than SMT paste. It is not suitable for electronics -- it's intended for general fabrication, plumbing and tinsmithing. If it is used for track construction the active flux must be thoroughly washed off. regards, Martin. |
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posted: 11 Jan 2012 07:02 from: richard_t
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For sleepers I use a mixture of vinegar and steel wool, which stains softwood sleepers a nice silvery/grey. Google this and you'll find what to do. It's a bit smelly, but the smell does go eventually. You'll need to practise with the amount of wool to vinegar otherwise you'll end up with mid-brown/yellow sleepers. I've not tried it with ply mind you. There is also a silver wood product on the market which does the same, without the smell. I've not tried it, but I think I will for the next batch of sleepers. |
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