Templot Club Archive 2007-2020
|
|||
| author | remove search highlighting | ||
|---|---|---|---|
|
posted: 25 May 2007 10:17 from: SimonH
click the date to link to this post click member name to view archived images |
Hi, Now that I am starting to produce some template from the templot software I am now looking for some tips on making track. Can members advise if there are any track making forums that one might join, to put the templot info to good use? Cheers Simon Handby |
||
|
posted: 25 May 2007 10:32 from: Martin Wynne
click the date to link to this post click member name to view archived images |
Hi Simon, This Templot Club covers track building in addition to use of Templot. So ask away. The only group I know about specifically for building track is: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/handlaidtrack/ It is mainly concerned with spiked flat-bottom track as used in the USA and elsewhere rather than UK track. regards, Martin. |
||
|
posted: 25 May 2007 12:29 from: SimonH
click the date to link to this post click member name to view archived images |
Hi Martin The first question I have is re the joining of the switch blades. What do modellers use for strecher bars. The first point I made only had the bars between the switch blades. However I found that the blades did not fit "snugly" into the set rail. I then tried using copper clad sleepers, (with some of the copper removed) a bit longer than the strechers bars, and sliding under the set rail to keep the point blades in the same plane. Whilst it worked its a bit big and ugly, and I am hoping that there is a better to do it? Cheers Simon Handby |
||
|
posted: 25 May 2007 17:06 from: Martin Wynne
click the date to link to this post click member name to view archived images |
Hi Simon, > I then tried using copper clad sleepers, > (with some of the copper removed) > a bit longer than the strechers bars, and sliding > under the stock rail to keep the point blades > in the same plane. This is an essential feature of prototype stretcher bars, and not always replicated in some designs of model "turnout operating unit" which you might have seen published. Quoting from the "bible" (BRT3): "The first stretcher bar in all cases projects beyond the stretcher bar brackets and passes under each stock rail, 1/8" below the underside of the rail foot, thus preventing the switch blades from lifting." On some pre-grouping designs, the stretcher bar is round in section and passes through a hole in the web of the stock rail, for the same purpose. In 4mm scale it is almost impossible to make a scale model stretcher bar which is also functional, and such bars are usually added as cosmetic additions. The actual blade movement being achieved using a non-prototypical "tie-bar". Soldering a switch blade directly to a copper-laminate "tie-bar" is not always very reliable, because such a bar does not have the lateral flexibility of a prototype stretcher bar. The soldered joint is subjected to a twisting force, leading to fracture. It is more reliable to arrange a pivoted fixing of some kind. The use of small pins in an insulated bar is usually the best solution. By not having to be directly soldered to, such a bar can be narrower, and can be disguised by gluing on a sprinkling of ballast. Such a bar can be made by removing all the copper from a narrow strip of fibreglass copper-laminate. For UK prototype, a comprehensive range of track parts is available from C&L and Exactoscale: http://www.finescale.org.uk http://www.p4track.co.uk If you are modelling non-UK prototype, you may want to have a look at Andy Reichert's excellent range of Proto87 track products at: http://www.proto87stores.com/p87stores regards, Martin. |
||
|
posted: 25 May 2007 17:48 from: Stephen Freeman
click the date to link to this post click member name to view archived images |
If you modelling 4mm scale, you might also wish to look at Masokits tiebars etc. Not as difficult as you might imagine. | ||
|
posted: 25 May 2007 18:14 from: Bruce Wilson
click the date to link to this post click member name to view archived images |
Simon: I found that Iain Rice's book " An Approach to Building Finescale Track" is a good reference even though it is now some 16 years old. I picked it up a couple of years ago. Bruce Wilson Barrie, Ontario |
||
|
posted: 25 May 2007 19:00 from: David R
click the date to link to this post click member name to view archived images |
Simon: After much study of the prototype and over twenty years of working in EM and O gauge this is how now I do it: http://homepages.tesco.net/~david.r.rayner/lumpy/track.html#switches Sorry about the sudden end to the text but writing the remainder of the epic is still on my "to do" list! Regards David R |
||
| Last edited on 25 May 2007 19:03 by David R |
|||
|
posted: 25 May 2007 20:54 from: Paul Boyd
click the date to link to this post click member name to view archived images |
> The first question I have is re the joining of the switch blades. > What do modellers use for strecher bars. The first turnout I made > only had the bars between the switch blades. However I found > that the blades did not fit "snugly" into the set rail. I use Ambis stretchers, which have a prototypical look, and can be used functionally, especially when aided with droppers. There are some old photos on my website at http://www.pbhome.myzen.co.uk/galleries/Track/index.html Others have shown how to file the blades, but if you're modelling certain railways you can put a joggle (I go for about 10thou) into the stock rail. Even if you don't have joggles, the curved stock rail should have a slight set at the tip of the blade matching the angle of the planing. A cheat is to tilt the blade over slightly so that the top of the blade really does fit snugly to the stock rail! -- Paul Boyd http://www.paul-boyd.co.uk/ |
||
|
posted: 26 May 2007 04:14 from: SimonH
click the date to link to this post click member name to view archived images |
Hello David I have looked at the photos in Lumpy Siding. The stretcher bars about half way down your site I take it go through the web of the stock rail on both sides? Is this enough to hold the switch blades in the correct position. They appear to be metal which is soldered to the switch blades. How are they electrically isolated. Also I notice a "thickening" along the bottom of the switch blade. Does this have a purpose. Cheers Simon Handby |
||
|
posted: 26 May 2007 04:22 from: SimonH
click the date to link to this post click member name to view archived images |
Hi Martin As I live in Tasmania, I am modelling the local "stuff" which is 3' 6'' using flat bottom rail code 83 @ 4mm/ft. I appreciate the help that members have given so far. I was starting to think track building was a bit like alchemy. Any of you blokes ever get to Tassy look us up, but bring your knowledge with you !!! Cheers Simon Handby |
||
|
posted: 26 May 2007 05:36 from: Templot User
click the date to link to this post click member name to view archived images |
=== from Andy Reichert === > As I live in Tasmania, I am modelling the local "stuff" > which is 3' 6'' using flat bottom rail code 83 @ 4mm/ft. In that case you should definitely check out: http://www.proto87.com/p87stores/swrod.htm These can be made for 12mm gauge in H0 or 00 scale. I will also be offering some brand new pre-machined accurate code 83 point blades. So no filing of the stock rails or the points  Andy http://www.proto87.com |
||
|
posted: 26 May 2007 16:32 from: Keith Norgrove click the date to link to this post click member name to view archived images |
> > As I live in Tasmania, I am modelling the local "stuff" > > which is 3' 6'' using flat bottom rail code 83 @ 4mm/ft. > > In that case you should definitely check out: > > http://www.proto87.com/p87stores/swrod.htm > > These can be made for 12mm gauge in H0 or 00 scale. > Of course 3'6" at 4mm scale is 14mm gauge, although I'm sure your switch rods will be adaptable to that. Presumably this is modern image Tassie, code 83 in 4mm scale represents heavy duty rail, 113lb on Network Rail. I don't recollect anything close to that in the pictures of steam age Tassie. Keith |
||
|
posted: 26 May 2007 22:55 from: Templot User
click the date to link to this post click member name to view archived images |
=== from Andy Reichert === > Of course 3'6" at 4mm scale is 14mm gauge, > although I'm sure your switch rods will be adaptable to that. Beg Pardon, I overlooked the 4mm at the end of the line.  I was thinking of the large number of Australian modelers who are using HO scale rather than 4mm. Probabaly because they can take advantage of all the similar US Diesel models. Yes, the rod spacing is set by CNC drilling, for the lower volume parts, so 14mm is just as easy to set up. Andy http://www.proto87.com |
||
|
posted: 27 May 2007 15:31 from: Charles Orr
click the date to link to this post click member name to view archived images |
Hi Simon There is an article in the current Railway Modeller (June 2007 p387) which provides a possible solution to your original question. It might be of some help. regards Charles |
||
|
posted: 29 May 2007 14:02 from: David R
click the date to link to this post click member name to view archived images |
I have looked at the photos in Lumpy Siding. The stretcher bars about half way down your site I take it go through the web of the stock rail on both sides? Is this enough to hold the switch blades in the correct position. They appear to be metal which is soldered to the switch blades. How are they electrically isolated. Also I notice a "thickening" along the bottom of the switch blade. Does this have a purpose. The stretcher bars (early NER pattern round rod) are made of brass wire which does indeed go through both switch rails and both stock rails, insulated from each other by small plastic inserts. The arrangement is glued (no solder) but entirely cosmetic, the brute force and movement is supplied from a sub-baseboard arrangement similar to that suggested by Rice and CLAG (references in my previous post). The "thickening" along the bottom of the switch blade is to represent the shape of the prototype which was designed to support tons of rolling stock pounding trackwork at high speeds. See the illustrations above the photos for details of how to plane the rail to achieve this. http://homepages.tesco.net/~david.r.rayner/lumpy/track.html#switches The fact that you spotted this shaping proves that it is worth reproducing it on the model. Regards David R |
||
| Please read this important note about copyright: Unless stated otherwise, all the files submitted to this web site are copyright and the property of the respective contributor. You are welcome to use them for your own personal non-commercial purposes, and in your messages on this web site. If you want to publish any of this material elsewhere or use it commercially, you must first obtain the owner's permission to do so. |