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page trail:  Templot Club > Forums > Share and show > 3 way turnout in copperclad
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                 3 way turnout in copperclad
     
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1st message | this message only posted: 25 Aug 2014 19:03
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from:
Hayfield
United Kingdom

 

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I thought I would share the build of this turnout especially as I was given so much assistance with the plan. Built to 00sf through the crossings, then flared out to 00 gauge to match flexi track 
 
I stick the plan to a building board, then tape tracing paper over it, followed by a few very thin strips of double-sided tape which is what I use to hold the sleepers to the paper. Don't put any tape where the tie-bars go. My prefered start place is from the Vee furthest on the right the work back with the next two
 
Most of the rails are now in place, though at this point just tacked to the sleepers in a few places for initial testing during the build
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2nd message | this message only posted: 26 Aug 2014 16:56
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from:
Paul Boyd
Loughborough, United Kingdom

 

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Hi "Hayfield"

That looks good!  Can I make one suggestion though?  In the bottom photo you have a flangeway gauge to space the check rail from the stock rail.  The critical dimension there is actually the distance from the crossing nose to the check rail - see CG (Check Gauge) in the diagram below, or refer to this thread



This photo shows a couple of gauges in use to ensure the check rail is the correct distance from the crossing nose.



Hope this helps!

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3rd message | this message only posted: 26 Aug 2014 17:39
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from:
Hayfield
United Kingdom

 

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Paul

Thank you very much, never thought of it that way and it would explain the odd occasion I get a slight tight spot on 3 ways

I sometimes think I tend to focus on parts rather than the whole thing (tunnel vision?)

Do I see you still use the odd rivet?
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4th message | this message only posted: 26 Aug 2014 17:54
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from:
Hayfield
United Kingdom

 

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We have some very talented builders on here (not counting myself as one) and a very simple photo with an eagle eyed member has just given me a free lesson (thank you).

I am a bit surprised that so few have shown their work either to pass on their valuable knowledge or to obtain some feed back.
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5th message | this message only posted: 26 Aug 2014 21:03
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from:
Paul Boyd
Loughborough, United Kingdom

 

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Hi

Yes, when I was building with ply timbers and plastic chairs I did use the odd rivet here and there to beef things up a bit in critical locations.  I've since switched to using Masokits etched chairs with copperclad timbers which means nothing needs beefing up!

You suggested people show their work - my latest railway-related work-in-progress is based on Iain Rice's Shotley South Quay and can be seen in this album on Flickr  There's loads of other stuff on there - if you browse the collections it will help to narrow things down!  I also still have some stuff left on the old Picasa site which I haven't copied over yet, if you run out of things to look at!

Model railway stuff does seem to have taken a back seat at the moment though as I've rediscovered plastic modelling!  That hobby has progressed leaps and bounds in the last 20-30 years - it really makes railway modelling look stuck in a time warp :D

Cheers

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6th message | this message only posted: 26 Aug 2014 22:01
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from:
Trevor Walling
United Kingdom

 

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Hello Paul,
                What do you use to stain the timbers please?
Regards
 Trevor. :)

Paul Boyd wrote: Hi "Hayfield"

That looks good!  Can I make one suggestion though?  In the bottom photo you have a flangeway gauge to space the check rail from the stock rail.  The critical dimension there is actually the distance from the crossing nose to the check rail - see CG (Check Gauge) in the diagram below, or refer to this thread



This photo shows a couple of gauges in use to ensure the check rail is the correct distance from the crossing nose.



Hope this helps!


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7th message | this message only posted: 2 Sep 2014 17:12
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from:
Paul Boyd
Loughborough, United Kingdom

 

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Hi Trevor

I'm really sorry for the delay in replying - I accidentally marked the email as read so forgot about it!  Anyway, I think I used a concoction suggested by Iain Rice, which is basically Indian ink and IPA (alcohol, not beer!)  I don't have the reference to hand, but the ink I used was Winsor & Newton "Nut Brown".  I also have a bottle of black Indian ink which I think I used somewhere.  Basically, dilute it with IPA then drop the pre-cut timbers/sleepers into it for a while, then let them dry on a piece of kitchen towel.  You will probably need to experiment to get the best results.

Hope this helps!

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8th message | this message only posted: 2 Sep 2014 17:33
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from:
Trevor Walling
United Kingdom

 

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Thanks Paul,
I had read about the method Iain Rice used in his "An Approach to Finescale Track" book but yours is in colour. :)
Regards.
Trevor.
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