Templot Club Archive 2007-2020                             

topic: 2579Cutting Rail joints
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posted: 20 Nov 2014 01:25

from:

Trevor Walling
 
United Kingdom

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Hello,
         I remember sometime ago reading about using a fret saw and swiss blades to cut the rail.I am puzzled as to how and when people do this.Is it after the track is laid or cutting the rails before construction.Any tips that  yealed results obtained by others as seen on here and RMweb would be much appreciated. I would also like to know the source for a decent fret saw and the size and source of blades that are suitable if possible please.
I think it was a topic by "JFS" (Howard) :)that I am alluding to.
Thanks.
Trevor. :)
Last edited on 20 Nov 2014 01:28 by Trevor Walling
posted: 20 Nov 2014 08:24

from:

Phil O
 
Plymouth - United Kingdom

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Trevor Walling wrote:
Hello,
         I remember sometime ago reading about using a fret saw and swiss blades to cut the rail.I am puzzled as to how and when people do this.Is it after the track is laid or cutting the rails before construction.Any tips that  yealed results obtained by others as seen on here and RMweb would be much appreciated. I would also like to know the source for a decent fret saw and the size and source of blades that are suitable if possible please.
I think it was a topic by "JFS" (Howard) :)that I am alluding to.
Thanks.
Trevor. :)
Hi Trevor

I used to do all the cuts after I had laid the track using a slitting disk when I used soldered construction, I now cut the rail after doing any bending that may be required as I use functional chairs and it makes it easier, I use a bit of thin card as a spacer to avoid shorts. See the article in the recent MRJ.

Cheers Phil



posted: 20 Nov 2014 22:18

from:

JFS
 
United Kingdom

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Trevor Walling wrote:
Hello,
       
I think it was a topic by "JFS" (Howard) :)that I am alluding to.
  :)
Hello Trevor,

I certainly do use a piercing saw for this job and I do it at the point where I have assembled the basic sub-assemblies (K crossings etc) and am ready to start putting them together. I aim to cut the rail as accurately as possible to provide the minimum of gap consistent with reliable insulation. In places where electrical insulation is not needed, I cut "cosmetic" gaps through the rail head only.  With a bit of practice, a piercing saw makes a very accurate cut in exactly the place you need it.

It is very important to buy good quality blades and my preference is to use the finest I can - usually a 4/0 or 6/0 (ie 0000 or 000000 NOT 4- or 6-). 

If you take Model Railway Journal, I wrote an article describing the process - part one was in the last issue and part 2 will be in the next.

There is also a more complete version of the topic you are referring to on the S4 soc forum:-

http://www.scalefour.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=78&t=1342

Hope that helps.

Best wishes,



posted: 22 Nov 2014 01:24

from:

Trevor Walling
 
United Kingdom

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Hello,
       Thanks for that Howard.What is the difference between a fret saw and a piercing saw, or are they the same thing?
Trevor :)

posted: 22 Nov 2014 09:29

from:

Les G
 
 

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Trevor Walling wrote:
Hello,
       Thanks for that Howard.What is the difference between a fret saw and a piercing saw, or are they the same thing?
Trevor :)

Trevor,

It is safe to say that they are the same class of thing: Saws with changeable blades, and a frame. they are used to cut on the pull-stroke. The Wonkeedonkee website, below, has a comprehensive description of most types of saw.

Briefly:

Fretsaw: Used to cut scroll work, and has thin blades, and a very deep throat of  typically a foot or more; mostly used to cut wood and plastics. 

Coping saw:  Used with coarser blades, 6 to 8 inches deep throat; blades to cut wood, plastic and ceramic,  tile.

Piercing saw: These have a smaller, stiffer frame, and use fine-tooth blades to cut metal; they break easily, so the frame can be adjusted to use the broken lengths of blade; used by jewellers and model makers.

http://www.wonkeedonkeetools.co.uk/handsaws/what-is-a-saw


posted: 22 Nov 2014 15:44

from:

JFS
 
United Kingdom

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- exactly - and I get mine from here:-

http://www.hswalsh.com/categories/saws-saw-blades

Cheers,

Howard

posted: 22 Nov 2014 16:12

from:

Trevor Walling
 
United Kingdom

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Hello,
        Could you point me at a suitable saw for this type of work please?
Regards.
Trevor. :)

posted: 22 Nov 2014 17:14

from:

JFS
 
United Kingdom

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Trevor,

I bought one of these

http://www.hswalsh.com/product/adj-psaw-ts1201

about 40 years ago and it is still going strong. I paid £3.00 for mine - now I see they are £9.00

Buy the best blades though...

Cheers,

Howard

posted: 22 Nov 2014 17:30

from:

Hayfield
 
United Kingdom

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Trevor

To add my twopence of my advice, is if I can I cut rails where ever I can before fitting. I use wire cutters and file to length and de-burr. Sub assemblies again are cut to size before assembly. If I am using scale (Exactoscale) fishplates I let these gap the rails, for copperclad I use a scalpel blade to gauge the gap as this looks right.

Sometimes if necessary I use a cutting disk but these make a wide cut which may be slightly off the vertical

For notches in the rail head (above cosmetic etched fishplates) I use a fine razor saw, again gives a nice fine cut, and have used this instead of a cutting disc at times

posted: 23 Nov 2014 09:40

from:

John Palmer
 
 

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The same page in the Walsh's catalogue to which Howard's link takes you shows a TS121 which appears identical to my Eclipse PS51 and costs only £5.80! This can't be much more than what I paid for the Eclipse between 30 and 40 years ago and I've always found it a pleasure to use - that style of handle sits very comfortably in my hand. I have always mounted my blades to cut on the push rather than the pull stroke. Is that wrong? Seems to work for me.

posted: 23 Nov 2014 10:07

from:

alan@york
 
 

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Pulling is better, and gives a more even cut than cutting on the push; at least for wood. My finest wood saws cut on the pull.
a@y

posted: 23 Nov 2014 10:33

from:

Martin Wynne
 
West Of The Severn - United Kingdom

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John Palmer wrote:
I have always mounted my blades to cut on the push rather than the pull stroke. Is that wrong? Seems to work for me.
Hi John,

With a strong enough saw frame and good tension in the blade it will work either way. Adjustable piercing saw frames tend to be less robust, which means you get better control with the blade in tension from the handle on the pull stroke. 

A pull stroke is also better because it keeps your hand out of the way below the work table so that you can see what you are doing. I found a bit of YouTube video:



He is cutting much too fast for me -- you get more control by working more slowly, say about one cut per second.

regards,

Martin.

posted: 23 Nov 2014 16:57

from:

allanferguson
 
Fife - United Kingdom

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Isn't the internet wonderful! There's as much practical knowledge in here as took me ten years to learn before the internet was invented!

Allan F



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