click here for a list of all existing Templot documentation
Important Privacy Information cookie information pre-print options:    

click image to open Templot Club in a new tab
Templot club top logo
looking for Templot? - (free)



 you are not logged in  - Login | Join


receive all messages by email: info


Recent Topics
Front Page  Search  Image Gallery  Gallery Upload  My Account  Members  Open Source  TemplotMEC  Help  
make a donation  
please click: important information for new members and first-time visitors Templot Companion - User Guide
            messages archive on Yahoo
page trail:  Templot Club > Forums > Trackbuilding topics > 3D Printed Track and Turnouts
Templot web site

             Rating                           3D Printed Track and Turnouts
  Page:  First Page Previous Page  ...  6  7  8  9  10  11  12  13  14  15  16  ...  Next Page Last Page      
 Start new topic   Reply blank   Printer friendly 
  Rate this topic  
AuthorMessage
 Clicked a link? Wrong message? Wait until the page has finished loading, click in the address bar and then press the Enter key. This is a timing bug in some browsers.
401st message | this message only posted: 11 May 2018 16:39
 PM  Reply with quote  Reply blank 
from:
Stephen Freeman
Sandbach, United Kingdom



view images in gallery
view images as slides
Not very clear in the scanner at 800 dpi (I've tried to make it clearer) but think it shows what I mean.
Stephen Freeman wrote: Hi, Filing a lead won't help in this case as the height of the inside of the outside of the chair doesn't match the inside of the inside of the chair. All chairs are a very sloppy fit (well they don't really fit at all) as a result and none sit properly.

I'll try it in the scanner to see if I can get a better result.
Measurements? I'll try but my calipers aren't digital and are somewhat worn. Must keep eye open on Lidl and Aldi.


__________
message ref: 24707
Attached Image (viewed 430 times):

chair3.jpg
 
 Clicked a link? Wrong message? Wait until the page has finished loading, click in the address bar and then press the Enter key. This is a timing bug in some browsers.
402nd message | this message only posted: 11 May 2018 16:56
 PM  Reply with quote  Reply blank 
from:
Hayfield
United Kingdom

 

view images in gallery
view images as slides
David R

Thank you very much for the comprehensive instructions, I now see the process you use and the penny has finally dropped.

My first order was for a pair of check rails and a switch set, soon after ordering I was annoyed with myself that I failed to order a common crossing, so I decided to order a pair of 1-6 crossings plus another switch set, after your reply I think I will order a set of S1 chairs as well rather than use C&L chairs, just waiting to hear what Andy has to say about his 4 mm scale chairs

Thanks again

John
__________
message ref: 24708

 
 Clicked a link? Wrong message? Wait until the page has finished loading, click in the address bar and then press the Enter key. This is a timing bug in some browsers.
403rd message | this message only posted: 11 May 2018 17:27
 PM  Reply with quote  Reply blank 
from:
Hayfield
United Kingdom

 

view images in gallery
view images as slides
Andy

Thank you for explaining it, I have a blind spot for what I do not understand, but as you can see it's much better value buying in bulk especially in the smaller scales

Thank you

My order is in the basket awaiting the result of Stephens observations

John
__________
message ref: 24709

 
 Clicked a link? Wrong message? Wait until the page has finished loading, click in the address bar and then press the Enter key. This is a timing bug in some browsers.
404th message | this message only posted: 11 May 2018 17:34
 PM  Reply with quote  Reply blank 
from:
Andrew Barrowman
USA

 

view images in gallery
view images as slides
Stephen Freeman wrote: Hi, Filing a lead won't help in this case as the height of the inside of the outside of the chair doesn't match the inside of the inside of the chair. All chairs are a very sloppy fit (well they don't really fit at all) as a result and none sit properly.
Hi Stephen,

It sounds like the bottom of the rail isn't sitting all the way down on the chair's seat. Take one of the sleepers and push it down on a flat surface with one hand and try sliding a SMP rail with filed leads into one of the chairs. Push down on the rail while keeping it vertical.

This is what the chair looks like in profile. It's probably not what you'd expect.

It's supposed to work a bit like a real chair where the gauge is determined by the inner jaw and the key pushes the rail against the inner jaw. The key is set high so that the outer jaw can bend slightly to maintain pressure. It also lets light pass under the key. Only the inner jaw is responsible for vertical retention





Andy

 

__________
message ref: 24710

 
 Clicked a link? Wrong message? Wait until the page has finished loading, click in the address bar and then press the Enter key. This is a timing bug in some browsers.
405th message | this message only posted: 11 May 2018 18:00
 PM  Reply with quote  Reply blank 
from:
Andrew Barrowman
USA

 

view images in gallery
view images as slides
BTW, the detail on the FUD chairs is exquisite, but they are not half fragile :) (which is why I ended up with the rail cap idea)

I think I better see if I can get the design to pass the HP nylon checks. Problem is, from what I've heard, the detail might not be so good.
__________
message ref: 24711

 
 Clicked a link? Wrong message? Wait until the page has finished loading, click in the address bar and then press the Enter key. This is a timing bug in some browsers.
406th message | this message only posted: 11 May 2018 18:47
 PM  Reply with quote  Reply blank 
from:
Andrew Barrowman
USA

 

view images in gallery
view images as slides
Another snag with the HP nylon is that I don't think I can put it in my shop yet, but if I make the file available anyone can submit it to Shapeways to get their own prints.

(For some reason every time I write Shapeways I seem to think of Strangeways :) )
__________
message ref: 24712

 
 Clicked a link? Wrong message? Wait until the page has finished loading, click in the address bar and then press the Enter key. This is a timing bug in some browsers.
407th message | this message only posted: 11 May 2018 19:15
 PM  Reply with quote  Reply blank 
from:
Stephen Freeman
Sandbach, United Kingdom



view images in gallery
view images as slides
I will give it another try as your analysis seems likely
__________
message ref: 24713

 
 Clicked a link? Wrong message? Wait until the page has finished loading, click in the address bar and then press the Enter key. This is a timing bug in some browsers.
408th message | this message only posted: 12 May 2018 01:22
 PM  Reply with quote  Reply blank 
from:
Andrew Barrowman
USA

 

view images in gallery
view images as slides
I'm concerned that individual chairs printed in FUD, while looking a lot like the real thing, are going to be a bit impractical because they are so fragile.

I've submitted a beefed up version that should be compatible with the HP nylon process. I exercised the "print it anyway" option. They should show up in about ten days. Hopefully they'll look a bit like this, although they will be black:



__________
message ref: 24715

 
 Clicked a link? Wrong message? Wait until the page has finished loading, click in the address bar and then press the Enter key. This is a timing bug in some browsers.
409th message | this message only posted: 12 May 2018 01:55
 PM  Reply with quote  Reply blank 
from:
Martin Wynne
West Of The Severn, United Kingdom



view images in gallery
view images as slides

Please do not send requests for help direct to me via email or PM.

Post your questions on the forum where everyone can see them and add helpful replies.
Andrew Barrowman wrote:
Hi Andy,

Your measurements for SMP rail show that is significantly under scale width at 0.80mm.

Most code 75 bullhead rail is nearer to the correct scale width of 0.92mm.

If you have designed the base seating in the chair above for 0.80mm rail, it means 0.92mm rail will not fit down into it, and the foot will tip up into the space below the key.

It might be better to have the base seating set at say 0.95mm wide giving some clearance? Also if you want the rail to be held vertical I think it would be better to have the key directly opposite the inner jaw.

Have you tried putting a small horizontal curve in the key and the inner jaw, which would make it easier to thread the rail? It might also mean you could make it a tighter fit on the web without risk of fracture. Exaggerated plan view:

    )||(

cheers,

Martin.

__________
message ref: 24716

 
 Clicked a link? Wrong message? Wait until the page has finished loading, click in the address bar and then press the Enter key. This is a timing bug in some browsers.
410th message | this message only posted: 12 May 2018 02:56
 PM  Reply with quote  Reply blank 
from:
Andrew Barrowman
USA

 

view images in gallery
view images as slides
Yes Martin,

I think I've said several times, and even at the Brighton Conference, that it's designed for SMP rail. It's not practical to make a universal chair in FUD. The material is too unforgiving.

If someone would be kind enough to supply the dimensions of rail from other suppliers I can create chairs to match.

ab
__________
message ref: 24717

 
 Clicked a link? Wrong message? Wait until the page has finished loading, click in the address bar and then press the Enter key. This is a timing bug in some browsers.
411th message | this message only posted: 12 May 2018 06:37
 PM  Reply with quote  Reply blank 
from:
Stephen Freeman
Sandbach, United Kingdom



view images in gallery
view images as slides
Whilst not absolutely accurate given my poor calipers, which are normally near enough for my purposes:

SMP PB ( Don't have any NS)

0.85mm Base width
0.50mm web thickkness
0.85mm head width

C&L Hi-Ni
0.90mm Base Width
0.50mm web thickness
0.95mm Head width

DCC Concepts
0.95mm Base width
0.45mm web thickness
0.95mm Head width

None of the above would fit. Don't take my measurements as 100% though.

PS I have ordered some cheap new digital ones.

__________
message ref: 24718

 
 Clicked a link? Wrong message? Wait until the page has finished loading, click in the address bar and then press the Enter key. This is a timing bug in some browsers.
412th message | this message only posted: 12 May 2018 08:30
 PM  Reply with quote  Reply blank 
from:
Martin Wynne
West Of The Severn, United Kingdom



view images in gallery
view images as slides

Please do not send requests for help direct to me via email or PM.

Post your questions on the forum where everyone can see them and add helpful replies.
Andrew Barrowman wrote: Yes Martin,

I think I've said several times, and even at the Brighton Conference, that it's designed for SMP rail.
Hi Andy,

Yes, I know you have.

The point I have gently tried to make a few times, is that I don't think many track-builders use SMP rail. It is too loose in the commonly available track gauges to build accurate track. That's why there is so much angst about the supply problems at C&L.

You were wondering why there was little take-up for your 3D offering, and I would suggest that the need for SMP rail may have something to do with it.

In addition to that, there is the tendency for rail sections to vary from batch to batch. That's why I have suggested that separate half chairs may be the way to go, even if used functionally as the rail fixing.

That way -- a) it is self-adjusting for the rail width, and b) there is no need for the dreaded chair threading. It is not really practical to use injection-moulded chairs as functional half-chairs because of the large hole in the base needed for the tooling pegs, and the difficulty of cutting them off-centre under the key. But it would be fine if they are 3D printed:



It takes only a couple of seconds to bend up a paper-clip to make a rail clip, and once you have made a boxful they are re-usable. The inner half-chairs could be clipped to the rail while it is glued in position and to gauge. When set, the clips are removed one at a time and the outer half-chairs are added.

No I haven't actually tried it. :)

But if I was experimenting it would be the first thing I would try. It may take a little longer to build, having to fix two half-chairs separately, but against that you are saving the time taken chair threading. And for the special switch and crossing chairs you gain a lot of extra design flexibility.

Or maybe:



which provides a more substantial first fix to the timber, but a more fiddly second fix. Also the outer jaw part may be difficult to sprue and find a strong adhesive for.  

cheers,

Martin.

__________
message ref: 24719

 
 Clicked a link? Wrong message? Wait until the page has finished loading, click in the address bar and then press the Enter key. This is a timing bug in some browsers.
413th message | this message only posted: 12 May 2018 08:38
 PM  Reply with quote  Reply blank 
from:
Stephen Freeman
Sandbach, United Kingdom



view images in gallery
view images as slides
I can always use the remainder up next time I need to do some rivetted track:D

I think rail dimensions are bound to vary slightly from batch to batch as well as brand to brand. With C&L chairs it doesn't matter too much on the whole though I seem to remember there being complaints about C&L code 125 raIl and Exactoscale slide chairs and how users had found Peco code 124 a better fit. I don't know whether it was the chairs or the rail at fault. I only normally use C&L chairs in 7mm except sometimes for bridge chairs - depends on the spec required.

I can see the advantage of 3D printing for special chairs and the Off the Rails approach with keys gets round problems of any variations in rail dimensions. Problem is the conservative nature of the customer of course plus the extra cost implications.

__________
message ref: 24720

 
 Clicked a link? Wrong message? Wait until the page has finished loading, click in the address bar and then press the Enter key. This is a timing bug in some browsers.
414th message | this message only posted: 12 May 2018 11:54
 PM  Reply with quote  Reply blank 
from:
Hayfield
United Kingdom

 

view images in gallery
view images as slides
Martin

I wholly agree with you, though unless you get some national coverage, with perhaps an article on the ease of construction, I doubt if it would catch on

The other factor is about how easy and permanent it is to glue the parts together 

Providing these areas can be addressed as we discussed much earlier in the thread a combination of both threading where possible and the use of half chairs would be an easier solution, certainly would make life a lot easier for some of us, but would it sell?

__________
message ref: 24721

 
 Clicked a link? Wrong message? Wait until the page has finished loading, click in the address bar and then press the Enter key. This is a timing bug in some browsers.
415th message | this message only posted: 12 May 2018 13:14
 PM  Reply with quote  Reply blank 
from:
Martin Wynne
West Of The Severn, United Kingdom



view images in gallery
view images as slides

Please do not send requests for help direct to me via email or PM.

Post your questions on the forum where everyone can see them and add helpful replies.
Hayfield wrote: I wholly agree with you, though unless you get some national coverageHi John,

It will be the lead item on News At Ten tonight. :)

a combination of both threading where possible and the use of half chairs would be an easier solution, certainly would make life a lot easier for some of us, but would it sell?I'm not into selling things these days. I believe we are discussing experiments by modellers doing their own 3D printing?

For adhesive on ply timbers, I would go for something gap-filling such as 10-minute epoxy. A circular recess in the chair base would make a more secure fixing if adhesion to the resin is a problem:



It wouldn't much matter if the recess didn't completely fill. Just put a dab of epoxy on the timber and press the chair down over it.

cheers,

Martin.

__________
message ref: 24722

 
 Clicked a link? Wrong message? Wait until the page has finished loading, click in the address bar and then press the Enter key. This is a timing bug in some browsers.
416th message | this message only posted: 12 May 2018 13:24
 PM  Reply with quote  Reply blank 
from:
Hayfield
United Kingdom

 

view images in gallery
view images as slides
What about resin to resin?
__________
message ref: 24723

 
 Clicked a link? Wrong message? Wait until the page has finished loading, click in the address bar and then press the Enter key. This is a timing bug in some browsers.
417th message | this message only posted: 12 May 2018 13:29
 PM  Reply with quote  Reply blank 
from:
Martin Wynne
West Of The Severn, United Kingdom



view images in gallery
view images as slides

Please do not send requests for help direct to me via email or PM.

Post your questions on the forum where everyone can see them and add helpful replies.
Hayfield wrote: What about resin to resin?Over to Andy on that. :)

But with half-chairs on ply, you wouldn't need any resin-to-resin fixing.

Martin.
 

__________
message ref: 24724

 
 Clicked a link? Wrong message? Wait until the page has finished loading, click in the address bar and then press the Enter key. This is a timing bug in some browsers.
418th message | this message only posted: 12 May 2018 13:49
 PM  Reply with quote  Reply blank 
from:
Stephen Freeman
Sandbach, United Kingdom



view images in gallery
view images as slides
Superglue for either resin to resin, resin to plastic or resin to plywood. I think if we are set on having a slide on capability it has to be ABS. I expect the resolution will come.
__________
message ref: 24725

 
 Clicked a link? Wrong message? Wait until the page has finished loading, click in the address bar and then press the Enter key. This is a timing bug in some browsers.
419th message | this message only posted: 12 May 2018 15:34
 PM  Reply with quote  Reply blank 
from:
Trevor Walling
United Kingdom

 

view images in gallery
view images as slides
Hello,
Just a thought. Would making the runners for printing the appropriate size to be used as timbers/sleepers make more efficient use of the plastic filament for diy printing and or the things printed with Shapeways?
Regards.
__________
message ref: 24726

 
 Clicked a link? Wrong message? Wait until the page has finished loading, click in the address bar and then press the Enter key. This is a timing bug in some browsers.
420th message | this message only posted: 12 May 2018 17:05
 PM  Reply with quote  Reply blank 
from:
Andrew Barrowman
USA

 

view images in gallery
view images as slides
Trevor Walling wrote: Hello,
Just a thought. Would making the runners for printing the appropriate size to be used as timbers/sleepers make more efficient use of the plastic filament for diy printing and or the things printed with Shapeways?
Regards.
Hi Trevor,

With Shapeways prints the volume of material printed is a major component of the cost. That would make plain timbers much more expensive than the alternatives.

With diy filament printing you don't need much in the way of runners and the material doesn't cost much. The major "cost" with diy printing is the amount of time it consumes and printing plain timbers might not be the best use of your time.

Andy

__________
message ref: 24728

 
 Clicked a link? Wrong message? Wait until the page has finished loading, click in the address bar and then press the Enter key. This is a timing bug in some browsers.
421st message | this message only posted: 12 May 2018 17:12
 PM  Reply with quote  Reply blank 
from:
Andrew Barrowman
USA

 

view images in gallery
view images as slides
Martin Wynne wrote:   I believe we are discussing experiments by modellers doing their own 3D printing?
There does seem to be of theorizing but not a lot of experimenting.

I'm going to take a break from this while I'm waiting for the nylon samples to show up.

__________
message ref: 24729

 
 Clicked a link? Wrong message? Wait until the page has finished loading, click in the address bar and then press the Enter key. This is a timing bug in some browsers.
422nd message | this message only posted: 12 May 2018 17:44
 PM  Reply with quote  Reply blank 
from:
Martin Wynne
West Of The Severn, United Kingdom



view images in gallery
view images as slides

Please do not send requests for help direct to me via email or PM.

Post your questions on the forum where everyone can see them and add helpful replies.
Andrew Barrowman wrote:There does seem to be of theorizing but not a lot of experimentingIndeed.

On the other hand, without a 3D printer theorizing is the only option.

I don't see any lasting harm in spraying ideas around, for folks to ignore or dismiss as the ravings of a lunatic. :)

cheers,

Martin.

__________
message ref: 24731

 
 Clicked a link? Wrong message? Wait until the page has finished loading, click in the address bar and then press the Enter key. This is a timing bug in some browsers.
423rd message | this message only posted: 12 May 2018 23:47
 PM  Reply with quote  Reply blank 
from:
Rob Manchester
Manchester



view images in gallery
view images as slides
Hi,
These are excellent 'cheapish' calipers ( ideal for checking rail dimensions and such like ) :-

Dial Calipers

I cut mine down so it just reads 0-50mm and is easy to carry in a pocket while trawling round shows, model shops and the like. It reads to a resolution of 0.02mm on the dial. Gibson axles are exactly 2.00mm on it which is close enough for me :D

Rob


__________
message ref: 24733

 
 Clicked a link? Wrong message? Wait until the page has finished loading, click in the address bar and then press the Enter key. This is a timing bug in some browsers.
424th message | this message only posted: 13 May 2018 07:08
 PM  Reply with quote  Reply blank 
from:
Stephen Freeman
Sandbach, United Kingdom



view images in gallery
view images as slides
Hi,
I've ordered some 75mm digital ones, just under £10.00.

Rob Manchester wrote: Hi,
These are excellent 'cheapish' calipers ( ideal for checking rail dimensions and such like ) :-

Dial Calipers

I cut mine down so it just reads 0-50mm and is easy to carry in a pocket while trawling round shows, model shops and the like. It reads to a resolution of 0.02mm on the dial. Gibson axles are exactly 2.00mm on it which is close enough for me :D

Rob



__________
message ref: 24735

 
 Clicked a link? Wrong message? Wait until the page has finished loading, click in the address bar and then press the Enter key. This is a timing bug in some browsers.
425th message | this message only posted: 13 May 2018 19:40
 PM  Reply with quote  Reply blank 
from:
Rob Manchester
Manchester



view images in gallery
view images as slides
Stephen,

Don't want to put you off but I have had several digital ones ( all cheap/cheapish ) from different suppliers.

One gave a different reading each time you measured the same bit of metal.
One had a reading that changed when the caliper was sat on the bench not being moved.
One kept switching from metric to imperial and vice-versa when it wanted to.

In theory the batteries should last a decent length of time - mine often needed new batteries.

Rob


__________
message ref: 24737

 
 Clicked a link? Wrong message? Wait until the page has finished loading, click in the address bar and then press the Enter key. This is a timing bug in some browsers.
426th message | this message only posted: 14 May 2018 00:12
 PM  Reply with quote  Reply blank 
from:
Nigel Brown
 

 

view images in gallery
view images as slides
Rob Manchester wrote: Stephen,

Don't want to put you off but I have had several digital ones ( all cheap/cheapish ) from different suppliers.

One gave a different reading each time you measured the same bit of metal.
One had a reading that changed when the caliper was sat on the bench not being moved.
One kept switching from metric to imperial and vice-versa when it wanted to.

In theory the batteries should last a decent length of time - mine often needed new batteries.

Rob

I have a digital one. Would agree. It has its uses, but wouldn't trust it to give an absolute measurement. OK for rough measurements.

Also have a micrometer, which was better, but still a bit variable (the quality of the faces matters). Finally invested in a Moore and Wright micrometer at around £40. Great! Worth the money.

Nigel

__________
message ref: 24744

 
 Clicked a link? Wrong message? Wait until the page has finished loading, click in the address bar and then press the Enter key. This is a timing bug in some browsers.
427th message | this message only posted: 14 May 2018 06:31
 PM  Reply with quote  Reply blank 
from:
Stephen Freeman
Sandbach, United Kingdom



view images in gallery
view images as slides
I also have a micrometer but it would't be any good for measuring the web even if it was working - seized up due to non-use I'm afraid. I'm sure it could be sorted if I only knew what to do. :(

Nigel Brown wrote: Rob Manchester wrote: Stephen,

Don't want to put you off but I have had several digital ones ( all cheap/cheapish ) from different suppliers.

One gave a different reading each time you measured the same bit of metal.
One had a reading that changed when the caliper was sat on the bench not being moved.
One kept switching from metric to imperial and vice-versa when it wanted to.

In theory the batteries should last a decent length of time - mine often needed new batteries.

Rob

I have a digital one. Would agree. It has its uses, but wouldn't trust it to give an absolute measurement. OK for rough measurements.

Also have a micrometer, which was better, but still a bit variable (the quality of the faces matters). Finally invested in a Moore and Wright micrometer at around £40. Great! Worth the money.

Nigel


__________
message ref: 24745

 
 Clicked a link? Wrong message? Wait until the page has finished loading, click in the address bar and then press the Enter key. This is a timing bug in some browsers.
428th message | this message only posted: 14 May 2018 08:11
 PM  Reply with quote  Reply blank 
from:
Hayfield
United Kingdom

 

view images in gallery
view images as slides
Rob Manchester wrote: Stephen,

Don't want to put you off but I have had several digital ones ( all cheap/cheapish ) from different suppliers.

One gave a different reading each time you measured the same bit of metal.
One had a reading that changed when the caliper was sat on the bench not being moved.
One kept switching from metric to imperial and vice-versa when it wanted to.

In theory the batteries should last a decent length of time - mine often needed new batteries.

Rob

Rob
I have a cheap pair, no good for a precision engineer but fine for my purposes, they were very cheap and I guess seconds as others I have used are a bit smoother and mine are 0.01mm out of parallel. Which part is right I do not know, but for what I use them for they are fine. 

Most batteries are fine for duration, the odd one failed to last.

But accept what you say and will buy a  more expensive pair next time 

__________
message ref: 24747

 
 Clicked a link? Wrong message? Wait until the page has finished loading, click in the address bar and then press the Enter key. This is a timing bug in some browsers.
429th message | this message only posted: 14 May 2018 21:35
 PM  Reply with quote  Reply blank 
from:
Rob Manchester
Manchester



view images in gallery
view images as slides
Stephen Freeman wrote: I also have a micrometer but it would't be any good for measuring the web even if it was working - seized up due to non-use I'm afraid. I'm sure it could be sorted if I only knew what to do. :(
Stephen,

If it was me I would soak it in a solvent such as lighter fluid. It is very thin so works its way in through the smallest gaps. Put the micrometer in a dish, put sufficient fluid in to cover it, cover the dish and leave 24 hours. After that work the moving part of the micrometer back and forth without forcing it every few hours to allow more to soak through to the innards. If you get full movement back then shake out as much fluid as you can and leave somewhere warm ( in the sun ? ) but not on a hot radiator, hot oven etc. It may need lubricating after doing the above but you will need to take it aprt to do this. Not much to loose if if ain't working. At your risk of course, remember the fluid is flammable. Keep away from pets, children and sources of ignition :D

Rob


__________
message ref: 24750

 
 Clicked a link? Wrong message? Wait until the page has finished loading, click in the address bar and then press the Enter key. This is a timing bug in some browsers.
430th message | this message only posted: 16 May 2018 14:59
 PM  Reply with quote  Reply blank 
from:
Martin Wynne
West Of The Severn, United Kingdom



view images in gallery
view images as slides

Please do not send requests for help direct to me via email or PM.

Post your questions on the forum where everyone can see them and add helpful replies.
Martin Wynne wrote:Although it says the position is unchanged with regard to Exactoscale track parts, it is clear that Andrew Jukes is unhappy with the current position, and matters are in flux.See update today:

 http://85a.co.uk/forum/view_topic.php?id=3271&forum_id=6

Martin.

__________
message ref: 24763

 
 Clicked a link? Wrong message? Wait until the page has finished loading, click in the address bar and then press the Enter key. This is a timing bug in some browsers.
431st message | this message only posted: 17 May 2018 21:27
 PM  Reply with quote  Reply blank 
from:
Rob Manchester
Manchester



view images in gallery
view images as slides
Hi,

Shapeways have changed all their material names, see here

Stainless steel is now just called steel :? but at least brass is still called brass......

Rob


__________
message ref: 24776

 
 Clicked a link? Wrong message? Wait until the page has finished loading, click in the address bar and then press the Enter key. This is a timing bug in some browsers.
432nd message | this message only posted: 18 May 2018 02:08
 PM  Reply with quote  Reply blank 
from:
Andrew Barrowman
USA

 

view images in gallery
view images as slides
Martin Wynne wrote:
On the other hand, without a 3D printer theorizing is the only option.
Hi Martin,

I've heard some pretty feeble excuses over the years, but that one has to be near the top.

Anyone with a PC and access to the Interwotsit can make stuff  like this:



These are the resin chairs (inside and outside) on SMP rail, in terrifying close-up. Sorry the bolts/screws are a bit hard to see but they are there. I'll try to apply some paint and take more pix.

The rail is a good fit, but the foot does need to be seated properly into the chair with a bit of downward pressure. It might help to extend the key downward a bit, but that might cause the chairs to fracture. This material is very brittle. It looks great, but one false move and it's in the bin.

The nylon version should be here in a few days.

Andy


__________
message ref: 24779

 
 Clicked a link? Wrong message? Wait until the page has finished loading, click in the address bar and then press the Enter key. This is a timing bug in some browsers.
433rd message | this message only posted: 18 May 2018 04:30
 PM  Reply with quote  Reply blank 
from:
Andrew Barrowman
USA

 

view images in gallery
view images as slides
With a bit of paint. Possibly not the best paint, but it does show the bolts.





__________
message ref: 24780

 
 Clicked a link? Wrong message? Wait until the page has finished loading, click in the address bar and then press the Enter key. This is a timing bug in some browsers.
434th message | this message only posted: 18 May 2018 06:56
 PM  Reply with quote  Reply blank 
from:
Martin Wynne
West Of The Severn, United Kingdom



view images in gallery
view images as slides

Please do not send requests for help direct to me via email or PM.

Post your questions on the forum where everyone can see them and add helpful replies.
Andrew Barrowman wrote: Martin Wynne wrote: On the other hand, without a 3D printer theorizing is the only option.Hi Martin,

I've heard some pretty feeble excuses over the years, but that one has to be near the top.
Steady on, Andy.

I don't believe I need an excuse for what I choose to do or not do.

My computer time is fully taken up with Templot. I'd love to be experimenting with all sorts of computery things -- robotics, artificial intelligence, virtual reality. But I'm restricted in the amount of time I can spend sitting in front of a computer for health reasons. Or sitting at a bench building small-scale models or making track.

I have other hobbies which don't involve sitting inactive -- photography, woodworking, mapping -- which I need to spend more time on, otherwise I won't be here to do anything.

The pics look great. :)

cheers,

Martin.

__________
message ref: 24781

 
 Clicked a link? Wrong message? Wait until the page has finished loading, click in the address bar and then press the Enter key. This is a timing bug in some browsers.
435th message | this message only posted: 18 May 2018 07:59
 PM  Reply with quote  Reply blank 
from:
Hayfield
United Kingdom

 

view images in gallery
view images as slides
Andrew Barrowman wrote: With a bit of paint. Possibly not the best paint, but it does show the bolts.




Andy
I am certain this is the way forward, however being a bit of a luddite we all need a bit more information/reassurance

1   Costs
2  Durability
3   Application (which glues to use)

Very impressed with what I have from Off the Rails and 7 mm scale can carry the increased prices,

__________
message ref: 24782

 
 Clicked a link? Wrong message? Wait until the page has finished loading, click in the address bar and then press the Enter key. This is a timing bug in some browsers.
436th message | this message only posted: 18 May 2018 09:14
 PM  Reply with quote  Reply blank 
from:
Stephen Freeman
Sandbach, United Kingdom



view images in gallery
view images as slides
No problem with the quality of the detail but I think the seat needs to be just a tad higher, otherwise the rail can all too easily twist out.

On the plus side I have managed to get my Micrometer ungummed.
__________
message ref: 24783

 
 Clicked a link? Wrong message? Wait until the page has finished loading, click in the address bar and then press the Enter key. This is a timing bug in some browsers.
437th message | this message only posted: 18 May 2018 17:45
 PM  Reply with quote  Reply blank 
from:
Andrew Barrowman
USA

 

view images in gallery
view images as slides
Hayfield wrote:Andy
I am certain this is the way forward, however being a bit of a luddite we all need a bit more information/reassurance

1   Costs
2  Durability
3   Application (which glues to use)

Very impressed with what I have from Off the Rails and 7 mm scale can carry the increased prices,
Hi John,

Probably best to wait until I get the nylon version and see how it performs. I also need to adjust the jaw model.

Do you have samples of the various BH rails currently available? It would be great if you can post their dimensions.

Andy

__________
message ref: 24786

 
 Clicked a link? Wrong message? Wait until the page has finished loading, click in the address bar and then press the Enter key. This is a timing bug in some browsers.
438th message | this message only posted: 18 May 2018 17:59
 PM  Reply with quote  Reply blank 
from:
Andrew Barrowman
USA

 

view images in gallery
view images as slides
Stephen Freeman wrote: No problem with the quality of the detail but I think the seat needs to be just a tad higher, otherwise the rail can all too easily twist out.

On the plus side I have managed to get my Micrometer ungummed.
Hi Stephen,

Yes, it's not difficult to roll the rail right out of the chairs. The problem isn't the seat height. The key needs to extend down. The trick is to tighten the grip just enough. Too much and a jaw will shear off. You probably noticed that already  :)

I'm hoping the nylon version will be a lot more robust. I will wait and see how it does before I make any more changes to the jaw model.

BTW, Shapeways have just moved the nylon material to production status. That means I could make parts printed in nylon available in my SW shop.

Andy



__________
message ref: 24787

 
 Clicked a link? Wrong message? Wait until the page has finished loading, click in the address bar and then press the Enter key. This is a timing bug in some browsers.
439th message | this message only posted: 18 May 2018 23:03
 PM  Reply with quote  Reply blank 
from:
Andrew Barrowman
USA

 

view images in gallery
view images as slides
If y'all (yes, I know :) ) would be good enough to get your micrometers out and post the dimensions of the various types of bullhead rail in your possession I will put a test panel of chairs on Shapeways that are targeted at all those rail profiles. Each targeted version in the panel will have a range of jaw dimensions that should allow us to determine the best fit for a particular rail profile.

I'm not sure which material to use for this. Might be nylon but the rigidity of the resin might give us a better GO/NOGO decision.

This is something you probably would never consider doing with hard tooling but it's fairly easy to do with 3D printing. It will also make it unnecessary for me to import a bunch of rails to the US that I'm never likely to use :)

BTW, even if you have no intention of ever using 3D printed chairs I would greatly appreciate any rail dimension data you can find.

Cheers!
Andy


__________
message ref: 24788

 
 Clicked a link? Wrong message? Wait until the page has finished loading, click in the address bar and then press the Enter key. This is a timing bug in some browsers.
440th message | this message only posted: 18 May 2018 23:47
 PM  Reply with quote  Reply blank 
from:
Rob Manchester
Manchester



view images in gallery
view images as slides
Hi Andy,

I don't have any rail other than the ones measured by Stephen. Sorry :D

Rob

__________
message ref: 24789

 
This is topic ID = 2734     Page created at 06:16 (local time) Page:  First Page Previous Page  ...  6  7  8  9  10  11  12  13  14  15  16  ...  Next Page Last Page    
You can type a quick reply to this topic here.

Click in the box to begin.


But to reply to an individual message, or to include images, attachments and formatted text, use the reply buttons on each message above.

To start a new topic in this forum, click the Start new topic button below.
To start a new topic in a different forum, click the Forum Jump drop-down list below.

             Start new topic 

 click to jump to a different forum:     Back to top of page

Templot Club > Forums > Trackbuilding topics > 3D Printed Track and Turnouts
about Templot Club

list recently active topics Templot Companion - User Guide - A-Z Index Templot Explained for beginners Please click: important information for new members and first-time visitors.
indexing link for search engines

back to top of page


Please read this important note about copyright: Unless stated otherwise, all the files submitted to this web site are copyright and the property of the respective contributor. You are welcome to use them for your own personal non-commercial purposes, and in your messages on this web site. If you want to publish any of this material elsewhere or use it commercially, you must first obtain the owner's permission to do so.

The small print: All material submitted to this web site is the responsibility of the respective contributor. By submitting material to this web site you acknowledge that you accept full responsibility for the material submitted. The owner of this web site is not responsible for any content displayed here other than his own contributions. The owner of this web site may edit, modify or remove any content at any time without giving notice or reason.
Problems with this web site? Contact webmaster@templot.com.   This web site uses cookies: click for information.  
© 2018  

Powered by UltraBB - © 2009 Data 1 Systems