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             Rating                           3D Printed Track and Turnouts
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761st message | this message only posted: 3 Dec 2018 19:36
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from:
Rob Manchester
Manchester



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Thanks Andy,

The Proxxon is a great little saw for wood but the only time I tried cutting anything more serious the motor slowed down a lot and it didn't cope too well.

As you will have noticed the prices of pre-cut copper for sleepers has gone through the roof in recent years.

Rob


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762nd message | this message only posted: 3 Dec 2018 20:18
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from:
Martin Wynne
West Of The Severn, United Kingdom



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Please do not send requests for help direct to me via email or PM.

Post your questions on the forum where everyone can see them and add helpful replies.
Andrew Barrowman wrote:I have tried cutting laminate with a diamond blade and it's not a lot of fun. The dust is probably a bit dangerous too.Hi Andy,

Was that glass/epoxy laminate or SRBP*?

I found that cutting copper-clad SRBP laminate is not difficult with an ordinary HSS slitting saw. SRBP is not suitable for outdoor use, but perfectly satisfactory for most modelling.

It is also a lot cheaper:

 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5-Pcs-Single-Side-Copper-Clad-Laminate-FR2-PCB-Circuit-Board-12x18cm-ae3d/231569072953

 http://www.jabdog.com/PCB-PCB.htm

*Synthetic-Resin Bonded Paper.

cheers,

Martin.

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763rd message | this message only posted: 3 Dec 2018 20:35
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John Durbetaki
Gaston, Oregon USA



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The easy way to cut any clad board I have found to be a mini shear. I bought one at MicroMark ages ago - https://www.micromark.com/Mini-Metal-Shear-Brake

And there are also ones on ebay and other places.

With this method, the board is cut. I have also used it for thin aluminum, some plastics (not brittle) and even some thin wood.

John

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764th message | this message only posted: 4 Dec 2018 08:10
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richard_t
Nr. Spalding, South Holland, United Kingdom



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Thanks all for the PCB sleepers response!

Sorry Andrew, I didn't mean to drag this thread away from 3D printed track! Your old thread on the MERG forum was very helpful.

I've fitted the TCT (carbide) blade to my Proxxon mini table saw, and that's cut 100's of FR4 (glass-reinforced epoxy) PCBs from China. Fitted with some dust extraction, I don't get much dust from the top of the unit, although there is some inside that's left (but easily got rid off). The only trouble is the kerf, at around 1.1mm. I might try the diamond cutting disc, or the solid carbide blade, both of which are 0.5mm.

A proper PCB Guillotine (either this or this), is just out of budget at the moment.

Thanks

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765th message | this message only posted: 4 Dec 2018 21:40
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from:
Trevor Walling
United Kingdom

 

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Hello Andrew,
          Something like these might be a better option.Diamond cutting disk through a water bath. Should last a fair while and address the dust issue at the same time. https://www.google.com/search?q=electric+tile+cutter&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&client=firefox-b
Regards.
Trevor.:)

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766th message | this message only posted: 5 Dec 2018 08:14
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from:
Hayfield
United Kingdom

 

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The issues with these are the blades are quite thick, secondly difficult to get consistent widths.

Given the prices now charged for copperclad and Exactoscale's price decrease far better using plastic chairs and timbers, not including the hours saved cutting up the strips. If there is an odd job requiring copperclad buy a packet of precut strip
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767th message | this message only posted: 5 Dec 2018 09:11
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from:
Stephen Freeman
Sandbach, United Kingdom



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John is quite right, you'd probably lose about a sleeper width on each cut, besides which these machines tend to be a little messy to say the least, I know, I have one, only used for cutting tiles though (the diamond blades do not last that long either). Also of course not accurate enough for our needs.
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