Templot Club Archive 2007-2020
|
|||
| author | remove search highlighting | ||
|---|---|---|---|
|
posted: 13 Dec 2015 11:46 from: brianod
click the date to link to this post click member name to view archived images |
Hi, I have been building track using Templot for a while but until now I have used the paper template as a temporary base and so I have printed onto 80 gsm A3 paper and glued the sleepers with paper glue such as Prit Stick and then removed the paper template when the section of track is complete usually by spaying the paper with water. Obviously I then have to be very careful when moving the track section to the baseboard. I understand that a number of members build the track sections permanently on the template using heavier paper and then ballasting over the paper template once the track is laid. I have just purchased some 160 gsm A3 paper from Staples and can see the advantage of this method of track build - much less chance of damage to the completed track section when either trying to remove the template or moving the section to it's final location. Not wanting to re-invent the wheel, my question is what do other members use to glue the sleepers to the template? Regards Brian O'Donovan |
||
|
posted: 13 Dec 2015 12:59 from: Raymond
click the date to link to this post click member name to view archived images |
I use double sided tape for that and then glue the rubber underlay down with Latex, then the track/paper base and finally glue the ballast with dilute Latex. Raymond |
||
|
posted: 13 Dec 2015 17:06 from: Martin Wynne
click the date to link to this post click member name to view archived images |
Hi Brian, You didn't say what your timbers are made of? If plywood timbers, ordinary PVA wood glue should be fine. Don't use too much, so that the water content doesn't cockle the paper. Another option would be tubed balsa cement from aero-modelling shops. If plastic timbers, you need a tubed solvent cement adhesive, as used for plastic kits, or Evo-Stik-type contact adhesive. Liquid solvent alone may not provide a strong long-term bond to the paper. If copper-clad timbers, the best bet is probably double-stick tape. There are some very fierce such tapes available, such as carpet tape. Stick it lightly to a sheet of glass or a glazed tile first, so that you can cut it into timber-width strips with a craft knife. This method would also be suitable for plastic timbers. If you find a better solution, let us know.  regards, Martin. |
||
|
posted: 13 Dec 2015 17:44 from: brianod
click the date to link to this post click member name to view archived images |
Thanks for the help, I use plywood sleepers. My worry about PVA is that it will wrinkle the paper but I will give it a try, I have found a few glues on line which claim to give a good paper/wood joint without wrinkling the paper I might try one of those and if any good will report back. Thanks Brian O'Donovan |
||
|
posted: 13 Dec 2015 17:54 from: Martin Wynne
click the date to link to this post click member name to view archived images |
Hi Brian, This balsa cement comes with a fine nozzle attachment. No water content, so won't cockle paper: http://modelshop.co.uk/Shop/Item/UHU-Hart-balsa-adhesive-35g/ITM5005 Martin. |
||
|
posted: 14 Dec 2015 20:17 from: Ariels Girdle click the date to link to this post click member name to view archived images |
A good quality contact adhesive works fine for me. Liberally coat both surfaces and manoeuvre carefully into position. It has served me well on several layouts and doesn't wrinkle the paper. Best done in a well ventilated space though. | ||
|
posted: 23 Jan 2016 13:25 from: PeterD
click the date to link to this post click member name to view archived images |
Ariels Girdle wrote: A good quality contact adhesive works fine for me. Liberally coat both surfaces and manoeuvre carefully into position. It has served me well on several layouts and doesn't wrinkle the paper. Best done in a well ventilated space though.I realised my topic (topic 2829 - message 19848 and questions are related to this topic and therefore It would seem better to continue my quest for guidance here. The original question related to using 160 grm paper to secure the templates and discussion continuedwith securing templates to the paper and the alternatives to using PVA. I get all this and have used balsa cement to secure the sleepers to the paper. What appears to be left open is how to secure the ballast without the dangers of wrinkling if the templates are left in place.Can anyone please comment on this. I am holding off rebuilding until I have a clear strategy to follow following some good advice from experienced builders. Many thanks |
||
|
posted: 23 Jan 2016 14:00 from: Martin Wynne
click the date to link to this post click member name to view archived images |
Hi Peter, If you have used balsa cement or a solvent contact adhesive to fix the timbers to the template, it will have made the paper impervious under each timber. So it's not likely there would be any problem with that area cockling. What adhesive are you using to attach the finished turnout+template to the cork underlay? I don't like PVA adhesive in trackbuilding. I would suggest Copydex latex adhesive or a contact adhesive, so that the resilience of the cork is not destroyed. It's a good idea to punch a few holes in the template between each timber so that any excess adhesive can escape as you press the turnout flat. Once all that is set firm, wired up, tested and running, I don't think there is much risk of the paper cockling when you later come to ballast it. Even if it does cockle, it will be only between the timbers, not under them, and will set firm when dried out. Copydex can be diluted with water for ballasting in the same way as PVA. But take care when drilling through a dried latex film for dropper wires, etc. -- it will ball up on the drill bit. If you can't drill the holes in advance, cut away around the hole location with a craft knife before drilling it. regards, Martin. |
||
|
posted: 23 Jan 2016 14:54 from: PeterD
click the date to link to this post click member name to view archived images |
Thanks for the swift reply Martin  . All the things that were holding me back have now been cleared up.I have just placed the order for some more cork and I shall pick up the Copydex this afternoon. I am really looking forward to getting started again. Best wishes Peter |
||
|
posted: 24 Jan 2016 01:02 from: madscientist click the date to link to this post click member name to view archived images |
Ive been experimenting with 3m spray 77 to attach the template to the cork underlay , works very well . dave |
||
|
posted: 24 Jan 2016 02:00 from: PeterD
click the date to link to this post click member name to view archived images |
madscientist wrote: Ive been experimenting with 3m spray 77 to attach the template to the cork underlay , works very well .Thanks Dave. Which version of 3M spray do you mean?. I have had a look at the specs for one type, Scotch Weld 77. Best wishes Peter |
||
|
posted: 24 Jan 2016 12:21 from: Nigel Brown click the date to link to this post click member name to view archived images |
madscientist wrote: Ive been experimenting with 3m spray 77 to attach the template to the cork underlay , works very well .Hope you're following the usual guidelines of good ventilation and wearing a face mask. These sprays are dodgy, not stuff you want to breath in. I used one for attaching the backscene on my layout, not pleasant. Cheers Nigel |
||
|
posted: 24 Jan 2016 13:36 from: PeterD
click the date to link to this post click member name to view archived images |
Nigel Brown wrote: madscientist wrote:Hi Nigel, that's the reason I was checking the safety sheets. The only one I found was the 3M Scotch weld 77 is the only safety sheet I could find for the 77 spray series and that contains a number of recommendations including respirator use.Best wishesPeterIve been experimenting with 3m spray 77 to attach the template to the cork underlay , works very well .Hope you're following the usual guidelines of good ventilation and wearing a face mask. These sprays are dodgy, not stuff you want to breath in. I used one for attaching the backscene on my layout, not pleasant. |
||
|
posted: 25 Jan 2016 08:34 from: PeterD
click the date to link to this post click member name to view archived images |
To keep you up to date on this topic, I have now fitted the cork underlay to the station approach using Copydex. This went very well. It is the first time I have used this product and it was great to see a brush was included, attached to the cap. It has a distinctive but not unpleasant odour. Coming back to the foam backed paper, the only real problem I experienced was that it was difficult to build turnouts on being susceptible to pressures exerted during track construction. Martin thought that it would have problems when it came to ballasting. To check this out, I ballasted a section on another baseboard ensuring that I soaked the ballast in the usual PVA, Water and washing up liquid mix. The result was very good - picture later when I return from my trip out. Best wishes Peter |
||
|
posted: 25 Jan 2016 18:44 from: madscientist click the date to link to this post click member name to view archived images |
Nigel Brown wrote:madscientist wrote:Ive been experimenting with 3m spray 77 to attach the template to the cork underlay , works very well .Hope you're following the usual guidelines of good ventilation and wearing a face mask. These sprays are dodgy, not stuff you want to breath in. I used one for attaching the backscene on my layout, not pleasant. I have a good 3M respirator and also a full fresh air pumped face mask ( I used to spray two part epoxy onto boats for a hobby!) |
||
| Please read this important note about copyright: Unless stated otherwise, all the files submitted to this web site are copyright and the property of the respective contributor. You are welcome to use them for your own personal non-commercial purposes, and in your messages on this web site. If you want to publish any of this material elsewhere or use it commercially, you must first obtain the owner's permission to do so. |