Templot Club Archive 2007-2020                             

topic: 3217Templot postings on Forums
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posted: 16 Feb 2018 00:14

from:

Rob Manchester
 
Manchester - United Kingdom

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Hi Martin,

Would you agree that the topics on the Templot Club forums make a good place for new ( or even more experienced ) users of Templot to find answers to questions they may have ? It has hopefully resulted in less questions for you to answer always assuming that people do a suitable search before posting a question.

If that is so then would it not be sensible for the Templot Forums to carry some kind of 'copy' or link to posts concerning Templot on other forums ? The question Tony asked tonight concerning the set on turnouts is a case in point. If there is a dialogue progressing on the S4 forum would it not be sensible to have the info copied onto Templot Club or indexed over here in some way. There must be many people ( apart from me ) on here that don't have access or time to be active on the other forums and could be missing information that may be of use. It would be a shame if you had posted a long explanation on  another forum that had not gained a full audience.

Just a thought.

Rob


posted: 16 Feb 2018 01:04

from:

Martin Wynne
 
West Of The Severn - United Kingdom

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Hi Rob,

Well that's a real can of worms. :?

There are some buttons on the right of these pages which provide Search links into several other web forums:

2_151952_310000000.png2_151952_310000000.png

But I'm very wary about linking such stuff directly here.

Quite often it is just plain wrong. If I find any such I do try to post a correction, but I can't possibly monitor the whole of the internet for such stuff.

And I don't want to give the impression that any external topics are in any way endorsed by me or are "official" Templot information.

Of course, any member here is welcome to post links themselves to any other sites they find helpful, whether forums or not.

Here are the links to Tony's current topics on the S4forum. It is not necessary to be a member to read them:

 http://www.scalefour.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=5727

 http://www.scalefour.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=5728

They contain a great deal of useful trackbuilding information from one of the country's leading model track builders.

But I don't want to suggest by posting the links that I would do everything the same way myself. :)

cheers,

Martin.

posted: 16 Feb 2018 04:48

from:

Martin Wynne
 
West Of The Severn - United Kingdom

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Rob Manchester wrote:
The question Tony asked tonight concerning the set on turnouts is a case in point.
Hi Rob,

I have re-posted some old stuff about this:

 topic 3218

cheers,

Martin.

posted: 16 Feb 2018 09:27

from:

Tony W
 
North Notts. - United Kingdom

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Hi Rob.
I would agree with Martin that this could be a real can of worms, the same thought went thorough my mind on reading your post.
For him to do so would by implication be to endorse the linked post.
Much better for individual posters to do that and I had intended to do that at some point anyway.
I have myself thought long and hard about the best way to post progress on my current project Brimsdown, which has it's own thread on the Scalefour Society site, as at some point I shall be posting the Templot files for it. The best place for that would I think be on this forum as one needs Templot to view them and this would be the better place for Templot related questions, but the layout is being built to S4-X  standards, so I think better described on S4 society site. At present I have been diverted by the track building thread.
Besides, I think we all agree that Martin has quite enough on his plate already without the likes of us placing more responsibility on his shoulders.
Regards
Tony.


posted: 16 Feb 2018 20:09

from:

Rob Manchester
 
Manchester - United Kingdom

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Hi Martin,

Thanks for your comments. Firstly I fully agree with Tony with regard to you having important work to do with the help files, tutorials and videos etc. I also wasn't suggesting that you should plonk the whole of every internet forum post containing a reference to Templot onto the Templot Club forum, just that your excellent answers to user enquiries may be missed by people like me who don't monitor several different forums. The last thing you need is info on here that is just plain wrong ( MRJ article on switches noted ).

Maybe it is just me being lazy and I should stop watching so many classic british sitcom episodes on Y**tube and get out a bit more onto the other forums.

Anyway I raised the question. Weather up here was nice too today, took the wife round the Peak District and got her some present for her birthday.

Regards
Rob


posted: 16 Feb 2018 21:50

from:

Martin Wynne
 
West Of The Severn - United Kingdom

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Rob Manchester wrote:
just that your excellent answers to user enquiries may be missed by people like me who don't monitor several different forums.
Hi Rob,

If I post something which I think will be of interest here I do generally copy it here. Mostly it tends to be copying the other way when making detailed replies.

For example here is a recent reply of mine on RMweb which was essentially a re-hash of stuff posted here a few times. But it makes a nice contrast to Tony's methods on the S4forum, so here it is again:

 from: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/112910-simple-p4-turnout-construction-works-for-em-and-00-gauges-as-well/page-3#entry2988631



It is much easier to file a vee after assembling it. Even easier if you use a disc sander. Here is some stuff I have posted before, showing how a vee can be constructed to any angle matching the template, without needing filing jigs, and finishing with solid metal at the nose.

I have greatly exaggerated the crossing angle for clarity. The rails are shown in cross-section along the rail -- yellow shows the rail head and foot, orange shows the web of the rail:
 
2_060749_540000000.png2_060749_540000000.png
 
Make sure you have both rails the right way up. Bullhead rail has the thicker part at the top.

A is a prepared piece of rail with the end bent to the crossing angle, or slightly less. Allow a little extra on the overall length. Then file the end down to the web as shown to become the splice rail.

Make another one of the opposite hand as B, to become the point rail (nose). No need to file the end yet, but file a side notch in it to receive A as shown. The filing does not need to be very accurate.

C is any scrap bit of rail or etched kit waste, soldered on top of the rail for stability while handling. Unsolder or cut it off after installing the vee in the turnout, and then the surplus vee rail ends are trimmed back as required.

Assemble the vee as shown using high-temperature solder because the rail gets hot while sanding. If it gets too hot stop and dip it in a bowl of cold water. Using high-temp solder also reduces the risk of it coming apart later if you are using soldered track construction.

Hold the assembled vee down on the edge of a small block of wood using a penny washer on top and a couple of screws. Stick a bit of printed template on the block as a guide:

2_181049_190000000.png2_181049_190000000.png

Adjust the fulcrum screw until it is a couple of thou higher than the rail. Check that the rail being sanded is held firm.

A "penny washer" is a large washer with a small hole. Also known as mudguard washers or repair washers. They are sold as backing washers for pop-rivets, fixing canvas, etc. If you don't have a penny washer to hand you could drill a hole in an old coin, or use something else.

Turn the vee round on the block to make the second cut.

The result is as shown after making two cuts on the sander. If necessary the bulk of the metal can be quickly removed with a coarse file or metal shears before finishing on the sander.

The end result is an accurately aligned vee comprised of solid rail at the nose. All that then remains is to fettle the running edges at the tip and blunt back the nose to the specified width as shown on the template (0.25mm/10 thou for bullhead in 4mm scale). It's a good idea to take a few thou off the top of the nose so that it dips down slightly below the wing rails. This allows for the coning angle on the wheels as they run off the wing rail onto the nose, producing smoother running. But don't overdo it.

N.B. Wear a mask while sanding and wash hands afterwards. The sandings will contain lead from the solder. Stick Elastoplast or tape on the ends of your fingers beforehand to protect them if they catch on the sanding disc.

Far East-quality disc sanders are available at lowish cost and very useful for many other workshop jobs:

sander1.jpgsander1.jpg
 
Hope this helps.



p.s. last week I noticed disc sanders currently on offer in Lidl at £29.

cheers,

Martin.

posted: 16 Feb 2018 22:11

from:

Rob Manchester
 
Manchester - United Kingdom

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Thanks Martin.

Rob




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