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                                       Fresh air and photos
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201st message | this message only posted: 23 May 2018 23:47
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Rob Manchester
Manchester



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Hi Martin,

Some reading for you regarding filters here

Rob

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202nd message | this message only posted: 25 May 2018 17:03
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from:
Martin Wynne
West Of The Severn, United Kingdom



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Thanks Rob.

I do have a UV haze filter from film days, but I never found it to have much effect. I mainly regarded it as lens protection.

It's not surprising it doesn't do much, bearing in mind that the glass used in the lens will in any event absorb quite a lot of the UV. Although optical glass absorbs less than ordinary glass.

And I've read in several places that digital sensors include a UV filter anyway, so adding another one isn't going to make much difference. And it doesn't.

However I have now ordered a rotating polariser filter, which I have not tried before. In theory it is mainly for glare and reflections, rather than cutting through atmospheric haze, so it will be a case of try it and see. It is often quoted as an essential item for landscape photography.

The one essential item I do seem to be needing for landscape photography is a replacement set of legs. I'm still using the same ones I was using in the 1969 pictures I posted. :)

Martin.

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203rd message | this message only posted: 25 May 2018 17:17
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from:
Nigel Brown
 

 

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From the road end in Hirgwm, north of the Mawddach estuary, looking towards Diffwys.
https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/5782473

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204th message | this message only posted: 25 May 2018 17:41
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from:
Martin Wynne
West Of The Severn, United Kingdom



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Nigel Brown wrote: https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/5782473 Thanks Nigel. The sky looks a bit threatening there.

I like your phone box picture lower down:

 https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/5782443

Martin.

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205th message | this message only posted: 25 May 2018 17:45
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Rob Manchester
Manchester



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Martin Wynne wrote: The one essential item I do seem to be needing for landscape photography is a replacement set of legs. I'm still using the same ones I was using in the 1969 pictures I posted. :)

Martin.
Martin,

I assume you mean the ones you walk on and not the three legged thing you screw the camera onto :D

A lot of people just think a zoom lens eliminates the need for walking, but as you will appreciate there is more to a decent landscape shot than how close you are. A lot of landscape shots that are taken with the wide or tele end of a superzoom look kind of 'forced' but sticking to either a fixed lens around 35mm focal length ( relative to film camera and full frame digital ) or a mild zoom lens of say 28-85mm can be useful. Zoom lenses are a LOT better than they used to be.

I got two new cameras recently, I will post details for your perusal at some point.

Rob

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206th message | this message only posted: 25 May 2018 18:53
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from:
Martin Wynne
West Of The Severn, United Kingdom



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Rob Manchester wrote:I assume you mean the ones you walk on and not the three legged thing you screw the camera onto :DYes. :)

I do have a tripod in the back of the car, but it's too heavy to go lugging it about the countryside on the off chance of needing it.

A lot of people just think a zoom lens eliminates the need for walking, but as you will appreciate there is more to a decent landscape shot than how close you are.Using the fixed-lens X100F that's a decision I don't need to think about now. If I need to zoom in a bit I can do it later by cropping from the full frame. I'm very pleased with the resolution from the lens, and with 24 MPX to play with I can chop off quite a lot and still have plenty for an online image.

To zoom out I walk backwards. I've fallen over twice doing that, so I now need a periscope attachment too. :)

Martin.

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207th message | this message only posted: 26 May 2018 13:45
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from:
Martin Wynne
West Of The Severn, United Kingdom



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Polariser arrived.

It certainly makes a startling difference when rotated in front of this monitor screen (flat-screen monitors emit polarised light).

Then the sun came out, so a chance to try it on the camera. Brilliant! Reflections from shiny surfaces much reduced, sky twice as blue, plants and foliage show more saturated colours.

But it is clearly confusing the autofocus. I shall have to use manual focus with it, which is no great difficulty with distant views - just set infinity.

If the sun stays out I will post some comparison pics later.

cheers,

Martin.

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208th message | this message only posted: 26 May 2018 19:51
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from:
Nigel Brown
 

 

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Martin Wynne wrote: Nigel Brown wrote: https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/5782473 Thanks Nigel. The sky looks a bit threatening there.

I like your phone box picture lower down:

 https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/5782443

Martin.

I use Highlights/Shadows in Photoshop Elements quite a lot. Here I used it to brighten the darker bits (shadow lifting) and darken the brighter bits (gives the sky more character), then increase the midtones to bring back a bit more contrast. You can overdo it, but it is good for skies.

I bought a good polarizer for my Yashica FX3 and it had the effects you mentioned. However, after a bit wasn't sure I liked it, so stopped.

Nigel

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209th message | this message only posted: 10 Jun 2018 21:27
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from:
Martin Wynne
West Of The Severn, United Kingdom



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Useful colour reference for modelling:



 http://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/5803551

Martin.

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210th message | this message only posted: 10 Jun 2018 22:19
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from:
Rob Manchester
Manchester



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Thanks Martin :thumb: :thumb:


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211th message | this message only posted: 15 Jun 2018 03:23
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from:
Martin Wynne
West Of The Severn, United Kingdom



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Brockhampton (Herefordshire) last evening.



   http://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/5808545

Martin.

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