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1st message | this message only posted: 18 Mar 2019 16:25
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from:
Keith Newton
 

 

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Can Templot change a Double Slip into a Barry slip?
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2nd message | this message only posted: 18 Mar 2019 18:58
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from:
Martin Wynne
West Of The Severn, United Kingdom



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Keith Newton wrote: Can Templot change a Double Slip into a Barry slip?Hi Keith,

Do you mean you want to model a prototype double slip which has been rationalised to a Barry slip?

Or do you simply want to create a Barry slip from scratch? In that case there is no requirement for the diverging roads to align, as in a double slip.

There are some instructions here and subsequent posts:

 http://85a.co.uk/forum/view_topic.php?id=1356&forum_id=6#p8400

cheers,

Martin.

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3rd message | this message only posted: 18 Mar 2019 19:33
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Keith Newton
 

 

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Hello Martin
I had already included a double slip in my Templot plan and have been told now that for prototypical operation I only need the slips and one way crossing. hence I wondered if I could convert to a Barry slip easily, or do I need to start from scratch?
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4th message | this message only posted: 18 Mar 2019 19:49
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from:
Martin Wynne
West Of The Severn, United Kingdom



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Keith Newton wrote: I had already included a double slip in my Templot plan and have been told now that for prototypical operation I only need the slips and one way crossing. hence I wondered if I could convert to a Barry slip easily, or do I need to start from scratch?Hi Keith,

Delete the slip roads and slip switches, so that you are back to a diamond-crossing.

Then change each half-diamond to a turnout: template > convert half-diamond to turnout menu item.

Put the peg on CTRL-6 before making any other changes, otherwise you will lose the alignment between the two diverging roads.

On a 1:6 Barry slip, change to A switches rather than B.

On each one, you may want to increase the crossing entry straight ( action > mouse actions: control/real > adjust V-crossing entry straight menu item, SHIFT+F11) to reduce the lead length until the switch tips clear the opposite check rails.

Some timber shoving will be needed. Try to preserve the timber positions under each switch.

Are you happy with that, or do you need a bit of video?

cheers,

Martin.

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5th message | this message only posted: 18 Mar 2019 20:06
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Keith Newton
 

 

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Thanks Martin
Just tried above, I was ok until I put the peg on CTRL-6?
Did you mean put the peg on CTRL-6 before doing SHIFT+F11 or before changing to an A switch?

Also, I am using Midland Railway BH 12ft straight heel switch - does that make a difference?

Keith
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6th message | this message only posted: 18 Mar 2019 20:27
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from:
Martin Wynne
West Of The Severn, United Kingdom



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Hi Keith,

Put the peg on CTRL-6 before making any other changes, otherwise you will lose the alignment between the two diverging roads. (I have now edited my previous post.)

For 1:6 turnouts with straight switches you will probably want to change to 9ft or 10ft switches rather than 12ft. Otherwise the turnout radius will be very tight. 12ft is probably ok at 1:7.

Blank the turnouts up to the switch toe, at do > blank up to switch toe menu item.

If necessary, shorten the check rail to span only 4 timbers, to make more space for the switch tips, real > adjust check rails menu item.

cheers,

Martin.

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