Templot Club Archive 2007-2020                             

topic: 403Curved turnouts
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posted: 6 Apr 2008 15:26

from:

Hayfield
 
United Kingdom

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A bit of advice please

My previous experance with curved points was with the SMP 36/24" radius kits, which came out nearly 2 foot long (well 18 inches)

So I made a template with a B7 switch and kept the main line to 500' (78") (to keep other line out of the red in the min radius box) Made the point out of copperclad and it came out fine.

I went back and printed off a B6 again at 500' main line radius, then thought I would look at a B6, I then found out I could keep the main radius down to 300' (47") without geting the other exit going into the red. Built another point and that worked out fine other than main line radius looks a bit tight.

In reality I think my crossover will be on a starting radius of 400' (63") which would keep the other exit road shallower !

On the basis that curving the point does not extend the length too much (re SMP points) would I be better advised to go for a 9 of 10 crossiong angle ?

Any advice welcomed please

John

posted: 6 Apr 2008 16:45

from:

Martin Wynne
 
West Of The Severn - United Kingdom

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Hayfield wrote:
My previous experience with curved turnouts was with the SMP 36/24" radius kits, which came out nearly 2 foot long (well 18 inches).
...

On the basis that curving the turnout does not extend the length too much (re SMP turnouts) would I be better advised to go for a 9 or 10 crossing angle?

Hi John,

Please ignore the curved turnout templates from SMP. The switch blades are far too long and not based on prototype practice (the same applies to the curved turnout templates created by Trax2).

Curving a turnout in Templot does not change its length. However, before curving it you need to select a reasonably long one, otherwise the turnout radius might become too tight.

The best sizes to use for significant curving are the "natural" sizes, where the switch radius and turnout radius are equal. These sizes are B8, C10, D12, E16, F20. If you choose one of those sizes before curving, you will generally get the best combination of radii in the shortest length. A C10 is often used in model designs as the shortest sensible size for significant curving.

In a curved crossover, you can save a bit more length by shortening the length of the inner turnout only (i.e. the one with negative curving). One way to do that is by changing down one size for the switch. So you might have a C10 outer turnout and a B10 inner turnout. Alternatively you could leave the C switch and shorten the lead by increasing the crossing entry straight (for regular type crossings only). Or you might do both of these things on the inner turnout. But you mustn't change its crossing angle, otherwise the crossover road won't align properly.

(Also A7 is "natural", although A switches aren't used in running lines , so wouldn't be found in crossovers. And you wouldn't want to curve an A switch by much as the deflection will get very tight and be suitable only for short-wheelbase shunting locomotives.)

I then found out I could keep the main radius down to 300' (47") without getting the other exit going into the red.
The radius at which the warning turns red is purely Templot's best guess at a sensible warning limit for each gauge. You can change it to whatever is appropriate for your actual circumstances by clicking the change... button below it.

This setting is specific to each template. Obviously when working in a goods yard you would want to allow a smaller radius than on a fast running line. For private industrial sidings you might set an even smaller limit.

But in any event it is only a warning, having the warning showing red doesn't affect anything else you do in Templot.

regards,

Martin.

posted: 6 Apr 2008 18:20

from:

Hayfield
 
United Kingdom

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Martin thanks again, my refference to the SMP point was to illustrate the qualities of your templates against what was available to me before, the idea of use the points on a curve is to free up space in the station on the straight so a few extra inches does not matter as the curve is extra space anyway.

Thanks for the info on what works best, I will print a couple of templates so I can see them in the raw. Certainly building those two points has shown me what can be achieved and a good learning curve. (good job PCB strip is cheapish).

 

John

 



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