Templot Club Archive 2007-2020
|
|||
| author | remove search highlighting | ||
|---|---|---|---|
|
posted: 15 Sep 2009 08:53 from: Jim S-W
click the date to link to this post click member name to view archived images |
Hi All I thought a little tutorial on how I do droppers might be helpful so here goes (Other dropper based options are available!) Right then requirements before we start.
 Stage 1 comes when laying the sleepers as consideration need to be given as to where the droppers are going to be. As I use plastic sleepers I use copperclad for those than need droppers - if you use wood then you can probably stick with wood throughout. The sleeper marked A is not for power droppers but for droppers that hold the stock rail in place. The slide chairs in this area dont actually hold the rail. droppers%20b.jpg  Each sleeper is drilled and a brass lacemakers pin dropped through. Where there are 4 droppers together this provides an electrical connection between the stock rail and switch rail via the copper clad. Only two of these droppers actually need to be wired to the power supply. droppers%20c.jpg  The rail with the chairs already threaded on is then glued in place. The droppers are now trapped between the rail and the sleeper. droppers%20d.jpg  A touch of solder and the job is done! Dont forget to 'gap' the sleepers. A cosmetic chair can be added later. I tend to leave them off the non viewing side so that I can see where the dropper is if I need to know later. droppers%20E.jpg  As an aside, one compromise I take is to use as long a piece of rail as I can. I really don't like short pieces of rails as I think they are asking for trouble. You can nick the tops and add cosmetic fishplates when its all tested. On a normal point there are only 2 'proper chars between the slide chairs and the rail end. While plastic track is strong I do feel that relying on these 2 chairs to hold the rail on thier own is asking a lot so my solution (purists look away now) it to continue the rail onto normal track bases. I always try to have rail joints in the middle of a 'panel' for ease of alignment. Hope this helps Jim Jim Smith-Wright p4newstreetlogosmall-1.jpg  s4logo.jpg wfrmlogo.jpg All images in my posts © Jim Smith-Wright unless stated - please do not use or alter without permission. |
||
|
posted: 17 Sep 2009 21:27 from: Jim S-W
click the date to link to this post click member name to view archived images |
Hi All the sticking point of handbuilt track is generally perceived to be the good old Vee. After all all points need them and a layout without them isn't really that much fun! In reality though theres nothing difficult about building them its just a cast of right tool for the job and knowing what to do - the final element being practice. After all without practice no amount of wishing is going teach you how its done. There are many ways and what follows is mine, theres nothing new or original about it but it works for me. building%20a%20vee%201.jpg  If you are not going to build a lot of pointwork then you can just buy your vee ready assembled. If you are then the filing jigs available from the EMGS will pay back their initial outlay many times over. This is the larger one and I am using the 1 in 9 angle (it will go up to 1 in 12). Simply put you just pop your rail in and file off the bit that sticks out. You are supposed to file bend then file again but I dont bother as you cant see the end result anyway. building%20a%20vee%202.jpg  The same jig can be used to hold the rails at the right angle while you solder them together. As I am using plastic sleepers mostly I solder the Vee to a base plate of Nickel silver for ease and strength. building%20a%20vee%203.jpg  Again you can use the jig to set your angle for your checkrails, Once you have built a lot of points you tend to get very good at bending angles by eye! This angle was my initial bend with flat nosed pliers, not bad hu? It was a smidge out though so a gentle tap with a small hammer brought it spot on. Alway over bend and tap the bend to get it back. building%20a%20vee%204.jpg  Using a ruler for the alignment of the rail and a gauge to set the check rail gap the check rail is soldered to the baseplate. building%20a%20vee%205.jpg  The ruler cant be used for the other rail as the vee in in the way. I line this rail up buy eye. By using a base plate you can always unsolder the rail if its wrong and try again. Theres a lot of metal here and heat will sink away pretty rapidly so you will have to really go some to accidentally unsolder the vee building%20a%20vee%206.jpg  Finally the excess baseplate is gut away with a slitting disk in a minidrill. Holding the drill at an angle helps to hide the baseplate. I also gently tidy the vee itself with the minidrill so that there are no jolts on the sides. Dont forget to give it a wash so that any left over flux is removed. These views show the front and back. One thing that crops up from time to time and seems to get overlooked by those who know how to build track is the orientation of the rail. With bullhead rail the fat bit is at the top not the bottom. Including taking the pictures this vee took half an hour to put together. (well 32 mins actually!) Hope this helps someone. Jim |
||
|
posted: 26 Oct 2009 12:15 from: Jim S-W
click the date to link to this post click member name to view archived images |
Hi All Been busy working on the station throat for the Derby/London end of the station. While the track is a lot simpler (read boring!) than the other end the way that everything is on a curve does provide a bit of interest. trackworklondone.jpeg  trackworklondonea.jpeg  Cheers Jim |
||
| Last edited on 26 Oct 2009 12:16 by Jim S-W |
|||
|
posted: 14 Nov 2009 12:29 from: Jim S-W
click the date to link to this post click member name to view archived images |
Hi All When I built the plank I needed representations of the Westinghouse EP point machine and heater. With nothing available I knocked them up from scratch but while I needed 2 I built 3. The third one, by a roundabout route found its way to George from S-Kits. Today a parcel arrived back from George with his version of what I sent him. To say I am well pleased with what he has produced would be an understatement! Cheers Jim point%20motor.jpg  |
||
| Please read this important note about copyright: Unless stated otherwise, all the files submitted to this web site are copyright and the property of the respective contributor. You are welcome to use them for your own personal non-commercial purposes, and in your messages on this web site. If you want to publish any of this material elsewhere or use it commercially, you must first obtain the owner's permission to do so. |