Templot Club Archive 2007-2020                             

topic: 1009Starting in 2mm Scale / N Gauge
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posted: 11 Jan 2010 08:34

from:

kenbec
 
Australia

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Hello,

I am very interested in making my own points.

I am currently designing a layout in N gauge/scale, loosely based on UK Steam, using XTrkCad and Peco code 80 Nickel Silver Flexitrack, mainly because I have a lot of unused lengths from long ago. I have been waiting over 50 years for this layout so I would like to get it right or as close as possible.

The reason your program interests me is because

a) I love the sweeping point work on the prototype.
 
b) Because Peco Points don't allow this to be done with any success, for example by the time a series of points have been set up to achieve the equivalent of say a scissors crossover they seem to stretch out to infinity. :)

c) My rolling stock can have problems traversing Peco points, the reasons are not always the same.

d) Because I think your program will help me to create point work the way I like it.

Anyway enough about my reasons, what I would like to ask you are the following questions:-

(I ask the questions about supplies because I have been enquiring locally and no one seems to have much of an idea what I am on about, searching the Net has also been pretty fruitless. If I know what to look for I could have more success.)

1.What type of track is available that would be compatible with Peco code 80, if absolutely necessary can I strip the rails out of Peco code 80 track to make the points?

2. Looking at the fragment of track on your home page it is immediately apparent that a fair amount of precision work is required in the bending of track and the shaping of the pointy bit (frog?). Are there any jigs etc. to help in construction? If not this could be a problem as I have never done any precision modelling and could crash and burn on this type of work. For instance bending a piece of rail to shape would, I suspect, not be practical or accurate enough simply using a pair of pliers.

I assume there are suppliers in the UK who can provide the necessary gear and perhaps you can point me in the right direction.

I suppose what I am looking for is somewhere I can go to fill in my total lack of knowledge about points and their construction for a model railway. Thanks for any help.

Regards,

ken

Australia

posted: 11 Jan 2010 08:44

from:

Martin Wynne
 
West Of The Severn - United Kingdom

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Hi Ken,

Welcome to Templot Club. I'm sure you will find lots of friendly track-building help here. :)

I think it is fair to say that many modellers building their own track in this scale would use the 2mm finescale standards rather than commercial N Gauge -- that of course has implications for RTR rolling stock conversions, wheel changing, etc.

I would be doubtful that stripping components from Peco turnouts would produce very successful hand-built track, but making your own track parts really isn't difficult with a few jigs and tools. Two obvious starting points for you are:

1. The 2mm Scale Association. Their excellent web site is at:

 http://www.2mm.org.uk

They can supply the tools and jigs for track building, and have a detailed page about getting started with hand-built 2mm scale track at:

 http://www.2mm.org.uk/articles/getting_started/

2. The N Gauge Society. Their web site is at: http://ngaugesociety.com

Joining these two societies would be your best way forward, if you are not already a member.

regards,

Martin.

posted: 11 Jan 2010 10:28

from:

kenbec
 
Australia

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Martin Wynne wrote:
Hi Ken,

Welcome to Templot Club. I'm sure you will find lots of friendly track-building help here. :)
<Snip>
I think it is fair to say that many modellers building their own track in this scale would use the 2mm finescale standards rather than commercial N Gauge -- that of course has implications for RTR rolling stock conversions, wheel changing, etc.

I would be doubtful that stripping components from Peco turnouts would produce very successful hand-built track, <Snip>
Hello there Martin,

Thank you for your very prompt reply.

Firstly I am not working in fine scale because I have a large quantity of track, locomotives and rolling stock and really don't want to throw it all away or get involved in conversion hassles. Also, using Peco Flextrac and points I have completed the straight forward continuous run, which is an integral part of my layout.  Does this mean I won't be able to use Templot to create my points the way I would like them as I would like to replace the points I have already installed and I am about to embark on the next level, literally a new height level, which I had intended to make into a fairly complex shunting and services level. Afterwards there will be two further even higher levels , one at each end, which will comprise my major urban areas and passenger terminals.
This is my aim if I live long enough:D

I should have made it more clear that I wasn't talking about stripping Peco points, I was referring to the 2 x 3 foot lengths of nickel silver rail in each piece of Peco Flextrack of which I have quite a few boxes.

I might add that the scratch building of locomotives and rolling stock holds no interest for me but I am looking forward to the scenic devolpment part of my layout later.

I will certainly check out the two locations you recommended.

Once again thanks,

Ken



posted: 11 Jan 2010 11:04

from:

Martin Wynne
 
West Of The Severn - United Kingdom

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Kenneth Beckett wrote:
Does this mean I won't be able to use Templot to create my points the way I would like them as I would like to replace the points I have already installed and I am about to embark on the next level, literally a new height level, which I had intended to make into a fairly complex shunting and services level.

I should have made it more clear that I wasn't talking about stripping Peco points, I was referring to the 2 x 3 foot lengths of nickel silver rail in each piece of Peco Flextrack of which I have quite a few boxes.

Hi Ken,

Certainly you can use Templot to design your turnouts. You can also get your XTrkCad plan into Templot as a guide in the background shapes. See this page for an example of that:

 http://www.templot.com/dummy/rene_tandem.htm

You can of course use the rails from flexi-track to build pointwork, but it is an expensive way of buying rail. There are other sources of suitable rail. 

Unfortunately the archive site on RMweb is currently offline, but should be back soon. However, quite a lot of it is available in Google's cache.

Here for example is a topic about handbuilding N Gauge track, including some details of rail supplies:

(Copy and paste this link into your browser):

http://209.85.229.132/search?q=cache:bAChMhlxO74J:www.rmweb.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php%3Ff%3D5%26t%3D37908

regards,

Martin.

posted: 11 Jan 2010 18:01

from:

Jim Guthrie
 
United Kingdom

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Kenneth Beckett wrote:
Firstly I am not working in fine scale because I have a large quantity of track, locomotives and rolling stock and really don't want to throw it all away or get involved in conversion hassles. Also, using Peco Flextrac and points I have completed the straight forward continuous run, which is an integral part of my layout.

Does this mean I won't be able to use Templot to create my points the way I would like them as I would like to replace the points I have already installed and I am about to embark on the next level, literally a new height level, which I had intended to make into a fairly complex shunting and services level. Afterwards there will be two further even higher levels , one at each end, which will comprise my major urban areas and passenger terminals. This is my aim if I live long enough :D

I should have made it more clear that I wasn't talking about stripping Peco points, I was referring to the 2 x 3 foot lengths of nickel silver rail in each piece of Peco Flextrack of which I have quite a few boxes.

Ken,

Peco still supply the Code 80 rail as a separate item - Code IL4 -  so you should be able to get lengths of rail from suppliers who stock Peco - or possibly Peco themselves. You can get 2mm wide sleepering strip from the 2mm Association - but you have to be a member - or from SMP,  part way down on this web page SMP Web Site:

 http://www.smpscaleway.com

PCB turnout construction is probably the easiest way to start and the cost per turnout is low so you can probably afford to learn by your mistakes. :D  Don't lay and solder to every timber when starting - lay and solder to every fourth or fifth timber so that if you have to adjust any solder joint, it can be done reasonably easily. It's not very easy to adjust soldered track if you have laid and soldered to every sleeper. Once the turnout is working,  add all the missing timbers.

Jim.

PS - Fallen foul of Martin's forum software somehow

posted: 11 Jan 2010 18:19

from:

Martin Wynne
 
West Of The Severn - United Kingdom

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Jim Guthrie wrote:
PS - Fallen foul of Martin's forum software somehow
Hi Jim,

Not sure how you managed to link half your message to my Profile page :? , but I've fixed it now. :)

Many thanks for your input.

Martin.

posted: 11 Jan 2010 18:23

from:

Jim Guthrie
 
United Kingdom

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Martin Wynne wrote:
Jim Guthrie wrote:
PS - Fallen foul of Martin's forum software somehow
Hi Jim,

Not sure how you managed to link half your message to my Profile page :? , but I've fixed it now. :)

Many thanks for your input.

Martin.
You want to see the mess I was getting when I tried to correct it.  Don't know whether it was at your server end or my Firefox client.  :D

Jim.

posted: 11 Jan 2010 18:32

from:

Martin Wynne
 
West Of The Severn - United Kingdom

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Jim Guthrie wrote:
You want to see the mess I was getting when I tried to correct it. Don't know whether it was at your server end or my Firefox client. :D
Hi Jim,

Nor me. It's difficult to know how it happened. :?

When things like that happen, it's an idea to copy the whole thing, click Back in your browser, and then paste it into the Quick Reply box instead (at the bottom left of the page).

regards,

Martin.

posted: 13 Jan 2010 06:55

from:

kenbec
 
Australia

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Jim Guthrie wrote:

Ken,

Peco still supply the Code 80 rail as a separate item - Code IL4 -  so you should be able to get lengths of rail from suppliers who stock Peco - or possibly Peco themselves. You can get 2mm wide sleepering strip from the 2mm Association - but you have to be a member - or from SMP,  part way down on this web page SMP Web Site:

 http://www.smpscaleway.com

PCB turnout construction is probably the easiest way to start and the cost per turnout is low so you can probably afford to learn by your mistakes. :D  Don't lay and solder to every timber when starting - lay and solder to every fourth or fifth timber so that if you have to adjust any solder joint, it can be done reasonably easily. It's not very easy to adjust soldered track if you have laid and soldered to every sleeper. Once the turnout is working,  add all the missing timbers.

Jim.

PS - Fallen foul of Martin's forum software somehow
Jim,

Thank you for your reply, your recommendations regarding assembly are duly noted and make a lot of sense to me.


I appreciate your information regarding Peco Code 80 rail as my local model shop, which isn't really into model rail, doesn't stock it and I had no idea it existed hence my silly question re stripping it from Peco Flextrack.

I will display my lack of knowledge and say that PCB means Printed Circuit Board to me and, as this is obviously not what you are talking about, translation would be much appreciated.
It is already apparent that this field of endeavour, like all in modern times, has developed its own jargon and this I will have to learn first. Is there an acronym / jargon glossary on the net? I haven't been able to google one up.

I am behind the 8 ball a bit because I also do not have a good knowledge of prototype terminology relating to points / turnouts / switches etc etc. This I will rectify in the next day or so.

When you talk about soldering to timber you are obviously not talking about wood so I assume that the timber you mean is the material used to represent a timber sleeper, if this is capable of taking solder doesn't this make for a short circuit across the rails?

At this stage I must apologise for asking questions which are probably so obvious to you. I wouldn't be asking but it is an opportunity to start my learning curve. If you hadn't answered I wouldn't have been able to harass you so as the saying goes “no good deed goes unpunished”.:D

It has just occurred to me to ask does the solder take the place of the chairs, if that's the right term, in the prototype? If so doesn't this detract from the appearance of the point?

I hope you can find time to help me further but will of course understand if you can't.:( I couldn't find an emoticon for insincere.

I think it obvious that my next move is to obtain Templot and see if a study of it will give me further insights into the mysteries of points building.

Regards and best wishes,
ken


posted: 13 Jan 2010 07:09

from:

kenbec
 
Australia

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Martin Wynne wrote:

Hi Ken,

Certainly you can use Templot to design your turnouts. You can also get your XTrkCad plan into Templot as a guide in the background shapes. See this page for an example of that:

 http://www.templot.com/dummy/rene_tandem.htm



Unfortunately the archive site on RMweb is currently offline, but should be back soon. However, quite a lot of it is available in Google's cache.

Here for example is a topic about handbuilding N Gauge track, including some details of rail supplies:

(Copy and paste this link into your browser):

http://209.85.229.132/search?q=cache:bAChMhlxO74J:www.rmweb.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php%3Ff%3D5%26t%3D37908

regards,

Martin.
Hello there again Martin,

I like the idea of getting my XTrKCad plan into Templot.

I have visited all of the sites you have recommended and in fact have joined RMweb, I will spend more time on the others before deciding whether to join.

regards,

ken



posted: 13 Jan 2010 07:41

from:

Jim Guthrie
 
United Kingdom

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Ken,

PCB = Printed Circuit Board. :D

You have to cut the copper layer to provide insulation between rails.  PCB sleepers for plain track are normally supplied with the insulation gap but PCB strip for turnout construction requires you to cut the required gaps to suit your formations (that can be quite an interesting game with complex formations :D).  You can use a razor saw or a fine cutting disk in a Dremel style tool to do the cutting of the gap,  but you have to watch that you don't cut too deep and weaken the PCB base.   I prefer to use a razor saw since I find I can control the depth of cut better.

I think I remember Martin having a few web pages with details of UK Point and Crossing work and I've no doubt he'll pop up with a few URLs. :D

Jim.

PS.  Martin - having lots of fun and games trying to quote and edit,  and gave up.   Using Firefox 3.5.5
Last edited on 13 Jan 2010 07:49 by Jim Guthrie
posted: 13 Jan 2010 08:58

from:

Martin Wynne
 
West Of The Severn - United Kingdom

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Kenneth Beckett wrote:
I am behind the 8 ball a bit because I also do not have a good knowledge of prototype terminology relating to points / turnouts / switches etc.
Hi Ken,

This page has a good overview of track basics:

 http://www.railway-technical.com/track.shtml

This page explains some Templot-specific terminology:

 http://www.templot.com/martweb/gs_realtrack.htm

These pages are 40 years old but still contain a lot of useful track information specifically for modellers:

 http://www.scalefour.org/history/mrc7/part7.htm
 http://www.scalefour.org/history/mrc8/Pt8.htm
 http://www.scalefour.org/history/mrc9/Pt-9.htm

(and other linked pages in the series). 

As Jim explained, PCB = Printed Circuit Board. However the use of this term in model track-building is mainly American in origin. Most modellers in the UK refer to this form of soldered track construction as "copper-clad laminate" or usually just "copper-clad" track. There is no electrical meaning.

The bearers under plain track are called "sleepers" in the UK and are traditionally a fixed size -- 8ft-6in long x 10in wide x 5in thick.

The bearers under pointwork are heavier in section and are called "crossing timbers" in the UK or usually just "timbers" -- 12in wide x 6in thick x variable length. The extra width is noticeable when looking at pictures of UK track.

Nowadays plain track sleepers are very commonly made of concrete or steel rather than wood, and sizes can vary.

Concrete is increasingly being used for pointwork bearers also, although they are still commonly referred to as "timbers" and the process of laying out the design of them is still called "timbering" -- not always straightforward in complex formations.

Elsewhere in the world track bearers are commonly referred to as "ties" and the dimensions vary a lot from the UK sizes.

regards,

Martin.

posted: 13 Jan 2010 12:24

from:

Chris Parsons
 
 

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Hi all track makers,

May I throw in my own pennyworth of experience in making PCB soldered track.

I work in 009 and the first turnout out I made looked fine when I removed from the drawings/ jigs etc.  I had carefully made a cut in the copper cladding of each sleeper before construction and hence it came as quite a shock to find on testing, that there appeared to be direct electrical shorting across the rails.

After much head scratching and checking, I nearly abandoned the project when I thought that I least I would wash them to clean them from flux etc. -- hey presto -- the shorting disappeared! I am assuming that the liquid flux had seeped into the fibre of the sleeper base and had formed some form of electrical conductor. Washing in soapy water, certainly cleared the problem.

Hope this helps someone.

Chris Parsons

posted: 13 Jan 2010 13:50

from:

GeoffJones
 
Shropshire - United Kingdom

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Jim Guthrie wrote:
Ken,

You have to cut the copper layer to provide insulation between rails.  PCB sleepers for plain track are normally supplied with the insulation gap but PCB strip for turnout construction requires you to cut the required gaps to suit your formations (that can be quite an interesting game with complex formations
Ken

A few words about building track in 2mm scale/Ngauge from a dedicated 2mm Fine Scale modeller (so please excuse any caustic comments about UK N gauge manufacturers).

First of all scales:
2mm scale is 1:152. That is the exact conversion and we use track with a gauge of 9.42mm which is also exact.

N scale uses track with a gauge of 9mm which is correct for a scale of 1:160 and this is used in most of the world except the UK as far as I know.

When N gauge first appeared in Europe many years ago a UK manufacturer found that they couldn't get a continental motorised tender into a UK prototype so they built it to 1:148 scale (almost a prime number) and unilaterally declared this to be the UK standard. (A repeat of the same bodge that got us 00 scale 4mm:1ft running on HO 3.5mm:ft track)

Peco track uses code 80 rail (code 80 means the rail height is 80 thousanths of an inch). That scales out at around 12 inches. Prototype UK rail is 6 inches high. The fractions are not very relevant here :(  It is not too obvious when seen from a distance, but it not something that I could accept. Peco track uses a flat bottom rail held onto the sleepers with large bits of moulded plastic that look vaguely like chairs. Prototype flat bottom rail is actually fixed to sleepers with a fairly thin baseplate and clips that are almost invisible in this scale. There are detailed variations here but the clips are always quite small. Chairs are cast iron blocks used to hold bullhead rail onto sleepers. They are not relevant for flat bottom except for certain positions in pointwork where clips cannot be used; mainly where the switch blades move.

As others have pointed out soldering to PCB timbers is probably the most straightforward way of of producing pointwork. The 2MM Scale Association provide PCB sleepers and lengths of PCB strip for pointwork to members. There are two main problems to be faced.

1. PCB strips are not the same thickness as PECO sleepers so all pointwork will have to be raised in some way.

2. I am not familiar with N Gauge Soc products but I don't think you will find much available in the way of gauges and jigs. Everything that we supply in the 2MM Scale Ass. would be for the wrong rail size, wrong gauge and wrong standards.

Soldering to PCB strip is quite easy and if you pre-tin the bottom of the rail and use plenty of flux it can be done with little sign of any solder blobs. 2mm scale modellers using bullhead rail do sometimes arrange to make solder blobs to represent chairs but we have much better arrangements now including plastic based track or cosmetic chairs to use with PCB sleepers.

Attached is an example of 2mm scale track PCB sleepers, etched chairplates and cosmetic chairs.

2_150221_530000000.jpg2_150221_530000000.jpg

Regards

Geoff

posted: 13 Jan 2010 15:22

from:

Jim Guthrie
 
United Kingdom

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Ken,

Now that I've got home I can show you other types of N scale track.25_131010_500000000.jpg25_131010_500000000.jpg

The track which the switcher is standing on is Code 40 FB rail (from 2mm Assoc) on PCB timbers and sleepers.  The plastic based track just behind the switcher is the Peco Code 55 flex track which is the more scale appearance version of the original Code 80 N scale Streamline.

I don't want to confuse you,  but there's something else going on here.  :D     The PCB track is to FS160 standards which is 9mm gauge,  but the wheel and track standards are those of the 2mm Association squeezed in to 9mm gauge.  The Atlas switcher's wheels are turned down to FS160 standards = 2mm Association standards.

But you get the impression of FB rail soldered to PCB sleepers and timbers.  You can see the sawn gaps in the timbering in the pointwork and the rather generous gapping in the sleepers in the two tracks in the rear which is as supplied ready insulated.  These were sleepers I got about thirty years ago for another N scale layout.  The other PCB materials are 2mm Association products.

Jim.

posted: 15 Jan 2010 05:15

from:

kenbec
 
Australia

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Martin Wynne wrote:

Hi Ken,

This page has a good overview of track basics:

 http://www.railway-technical.com/track.shtml

This page explains some Templot-specific terminology:

 http://www.templot.com/martweb/gs_realtrack.htm

These pages are 40 years old but still contain a lot of useful track information specifically for modellers:

 http://www.scalefour.org/history/mrc7/part7.htm
 http://www.scalefour.org/history/mrc8/Pt8.htm
 http://www.scalefour.org/history/mrc9/Pt-9.htm

(and other linked pages in the series). 

As Jim explained, PCB = Printed Circuit Board. However the use of this term in model track-building is mainly American in origin. Most modellers in the UK refer to this form of soldered track construction as "copper-clad laminate" or usually just "copper-clad" track. There is no electrical meaning.


This is exactly what I am looking for, these sites have increased my knowledge from zero to, well, a lot more.
I can't see how a strip of whatever covered in copper became known as a Printed Circuit Board, but there you are, now I know. I prefer the UK terminology.

ken

posted: 15 Jan 2010 05:22

from:

kenbec
 
Australia

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@Chris Parsons
Thanks for the info, I have never struck this myself and would probably given up track building immediately. :D
I didn't know flux could act as a conductor.

regards

ken

posted: 15 Jan 2010 06:19

from:

kenbec
 
Australia

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@ GeoffJones  who wrote inter alia.


<A few words about building track in 2mm scale/Ngauge from a dedicated 2mm Fine Scale modeller <(so please excuse any caustic comments about UK N gauge manufacturers).>

Not a problem, I build my own computers with Windows as the OS and I am used to the MAC and or Linux fraternities going on about the superiority of their hardware / software. I just ignore them. :D

<SNIP>

<Peco track uses code 80 rail (code 80 means the rail height is 80 thousanths of an inch). That scales out at around 12 inches. Prototype UK rail is 6 inches high. The fractions are not very relevant here :(  It is not too obvious when seen from a distance, but it not something that I could accept. Peco track uses a flat bottom rail held onto the sleepers with large bits of moulded plastic that look vaguely like chairs. Prototype flat bottom rail is actually fixed to sleepers with a fairly thin baseplate and clips that are almost invisible in this scale. There are detailed variations here but the clips are always quite small. Chairs are cast iron blocks used to hold bullhead rail onto sleepers. They are not relevant for flat bottom except for certain positions in pointwork where clips cannot be used; mainly where the switch blades move.>

Thanks for this info another knowledge gap filled

<SNIP>

<1. PCB strips are not the same thickness as PECO sleepers so all pointwork will have to be raised in some way.>

Not a problem I already cut my own underlay, just a little thicker for points from now on.

<2. I am not familiar with N Gauge Soc products but I don't think you will find much available in the way of gauges and jigs. Everything that we supply in the 2MM Scale Ass. would be for the wrong rail size, wrong gauge and wrong standards. >

Is there any point in my joining the 2mm Scale Ass. then? I have already joined the N Gauge Soc, time will tell if this was a good move.

<SNIP>

<Attached is an example of 2mm scale track PCB sleepers, etched chairplates and cosmetic chairs.>

I hope my stuff looks as good when I am finished.

Thanks for the picture I have taken a copy, I hope this is ok please advise if not so.

All the best,

ken





posted: 15 Jan 2010 06:44

from:

kenbec
 
Australia

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Jim Guthrie wrote:
Ken,

Now that I've got home I can show you other types of N scale track.

<SNIP>

The track which the switcher is standing on is Code 40 FB rail (from 2mm Assoc) on PCB timbers and sleepers.  The plastic based track just behind the switcher is the Peco Code 55 flex track which is the more scale appearance version of the original Code 80 N scale Streamline.

I don't want to confuse you,  but there's something else going on here.  :D     The PCB track is to FS160 standards which is 9mm gauge,  but the wheel and track standards are those of the 2mm Association squeezed in to 9mm gauge.  The Atlas switcher's wheels are turned down to FS160 standards = 2mm Association standards.

But you get the impression of FB rail soldered to PCB sleepers and timbers.  You can see the sawn gaps in the timbering in the pointwork and the rather generous gapping in the sleepers in the two tracks in the rear which is as supplied ready insulated.  These were sleepers I got about thirty years ago for another N scale layout.  The other PCB materials are 2mm Association products.

Jim.
Certainly a picture worth a thousand words.:thumb: I have taken a copy for future reference, let me know if this is not ok with you.

One question. It looks as though the only soldering is on the outside of the straight rails, is this so?
I would have expected this to pull them over somewhat. It will be a great saving if I can do this on any straights I make.
I doubt this would be so when making points, am I right?

From your last paragraph it seems maybe I should join the 2mm Association but they sure don't make it easy. I can't remember the last time I sent something by ordinary mail.:shock:

regards

ken


posted: 15 Jan 2010 08:47

from:

Jim Guthrie
 
United Kingdom

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Kenneth Beckett wrote:
Jim Guthrie wrote:
Certainly a picture worth a thousand words.:thumb: I have taken a copy for future reference, let me know if this is not ok with you.

One question. It looks as though the only soldering is on the outside of the straight rails, is this so?
I would have expected this to pull them over somewhat. It will be a great saving if I can do this on any straights I make.
I doubt this would be so when making points, am I right?

From your last paragraph it seems maybe I should join the 2mm Association but they sure don't make it easy. I can't remember the last time I sent something by ordinary mail.:shock:
Ken,

The soldering is usually only done on the outside of the rail.   With flat bottom rail,  the application of solder does not seem to affect the position of the rail on the sleeper.  I use a small amount of a paste flux when soldering rail to PCB and a fillet is formed between the rail bottom and the copper,  and also a very thin layer of solder appears to wick its way under the foot of the rail.   Technically speaking,  if you are modelling UK FB track,  the rails should be sitting on baseplates which incline it inwards by three degrees,  but I think most modellers ignore this and lay FB rail vertical.

Joining the 2mm Association might not be a bad idea.  I found that their parts prices could be a good bit less than those of commercial suppliers and the membership fee might well be offset by the savings on parts if you are going to lay a lot of track.   The Association is also an excellent source of technical data for small scale modelling and they also advocate the conversion of a lot of RTR UK N Scale models so are a good source of data on these models.  There's also a sort of hint that they might supply an 9mm gauge version of their new "Easitrack" product which would be a great advance on realistic track for UK N scale.

Unfortunately,  dealing with electronic ordering and money transfer can be an expensive business for a relatively small non-profit making organisation,  hence a reason for a lot of the UK specialist societies not having the facilities.  But I know that we have just set up to receive money from overseas members by Paypal in the UK S Scale Society and will take orders by email,  so it might be worth checking if the 2mm Association can do the same.   I have found Nigel Cliffe to be a very good contact in the Association and you can get him via the email address on this web page.

http://www.2mm.org.uk/contacts.htm

Jim.

posted: 18 Jan 2010 07:48

from:

Martin Wynne
 
West Of The Severn - United Kingdom

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Hi Ken,

This blog entry posted yesterday on RMweb shows track and pointwork construction in 2mm scale:

 http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?app=blog&blogid=390&showentry=2442

(RMweb is having trouble recently, so if the link appears dead, try again later.)

regards,

Martin.



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