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topic: 1346Assembling Point HInges
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posted: 21 Jan 2011 12:11

from:

Franz
 
USA

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Hello

I am searching for methods to assemble the Turnout Hinges.  I searched this site and other sites and found little detail.  The only true details are shown in a FastTrack video and the Proto87 details.  Are there any other great hints on this subject. 

What methods are used to hold the point rail into the Hinge? 
How is the Hinge fastened to the other rails?
What gap is recommended for the flangeway?

Paul

posted: 21 Jan 2011 15:07

from:

wcampbell23
 
Hamilton, Scotland - United Kingdom

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Hi Paul

Before you can get useful advice on this it would help to know what scale gauge combination you are working with.

Traditionally for hand built turnouts in the smaller scales - 2mm to 4mm - the switch rail continues as the closure rail as far as the insulating gap for the common crossing. This is because the rail section is light enough to give the flex required for the blade movement.

For larger scales a pivot is often used at the end of the switch blade. This may a bolt of suitable size soldered to the underside of the rail and inserted down into the timbering. Some use a rail joiner as a pivot but a means of preventing the switch rail moving away from the closure rail will be needed. For example, the over centre spring on Peco O gauge turnouts performs this function.

The flangeway gap depends on the scale/gauge combination you have chosen. Standards are published by bodies such as the NMRA in the USA and the Gauge O Guild in the UK.

Regards

Bill Campbell.

posted: 21 Jan 2011 15:18

from:

JFS
 
United Kingdom

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Hi Paul,

I think there are as many ways of doing this as there are people making models of points!

I personally don't use a hinge - I use a single piece of rail for the switch and the closure rail with just a single (insulated) joint between the closure rail and the crossing rail. However, I cut through rail head (using a fine piercing saw) down to the web and I also cut through the rail foot in the same way. This, when dummy fishplates are added, simulates the prototype joint and also reduces the stiffness of the rail so as not to put too much strain on the drive. You have to be careful how you attach the dummy fishplates otherwise the whole lot gets very stiff - I use etched brass ones and only tack solder at one end.
Another way is to cut completely through the rail and solder an etched brass fishplate on one side only allowing the bending of the fishplate to form the hinge. I know some people solder a bit of wire to the underside of the rail, then cut through the rail and gain solder a pair of fishplates to one rail only. The wire bends to make the hinge and the fishplates kepp the rails in line.

Hope that helps,

Howard

posted: 21 Jan 2011 15:24

from:

Franz
 
USA

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Scale is 1:87 HO Gauge. The Prototype had hinged Points. I am familiar with assembling the solid points, but I am concerned with created the hinges and holding the point in place, actuating the point and providing the proper flange Gap. Regarding the Gap- Is a bit of tolarace need to be added to the standards for a Hinge because of slop in the fittngs? Paul
Last edited on 21 Jan 2011 15:28 by Franz
posted: 21 Jan 2011 15:53

from:

Martin Wynne
 
West Of The Severn - United Kingdom

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Franz wrote:
What gap is recommended for the flangeway?
Hi Paul,

For nearly all UK switches, the points opening at the tip is 4.1/4", and the minimum clearance anywhere along the open switch rail (point) is 2".

This is greater than the crossing (frog) flangeway gap (1.3/4"). It is important that wheel backs do not contact the open switch rail because this can damage stretcher bars and detection gear.

A recent serious accident in the UK was caused by this. There is a full report with some interesting diagrams at:

 http://www.raib.gov.uk/cms_resources/081023_R202008_Grayrigg_v4r.pdf

regards,

Martin.

posted: 21 Jan 2011 17:40

from:

JFS
 
United Kingdom

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(I thought you were going offline Martin :) )

Paul, Are you modelling UK prototypes?

Howard

posted: 21 Jan 2011 17:52

from:

Martin Wynne
 
West Of The Severn - United Kingdom

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JFS wrote:
(I thought you were going offline Martin :) )
So did I.

I've got the IDE open on the other screen right now, and I'm trying to stay there. :)

Just added N gauge options to the quick gauge menu.

Martin.

posted: 21 Jan 2011 17:54

from:

Franz
 
USA

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JFS wrote:
Paul, Are you modelling UK prototypes?
Howard;  I am not modelling UK.  It is Continental Pre-1910 German.  Building to NMRA not NEM standards. 

posted: 21 Jan 2011 19:22

from:

JFS
 
United Kingdom

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Paul,

So do you have drawings or photos because at that point my personal experience runs out - I first went to Germany in 1974 to roar between Rheine and Nordeich behind 012s! Practice then seemed to involve solid-forged (or perhaps cast steel) switches with a reduced height section at the "hinge". If 1910 practice was anything similar, my temptation would be to get some patterns made to have them lost-wax cast in nickel silver. I know a good pattern maker if you need one!!!

Assuming we are talking flat-bottom - do the Proto87 boyos have anything which can be adapted?

http://www.proto87.com/

Best Regards,

Howard

posted: 21 Jan 2011 19:38

from:

Franz
 
USA

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I had a Topic started
topic 1337
where the drawings are stored for view. The Bavarians used FB track very similar to the US deign implemented by the Proto87.com. I will have to make some minor changes. I am trying to get the dimensions correct before I complete the template.



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