Templot Club Archive 2007-2020                             

topic: 1995How Do You Stick Yours ?
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posted: 25 Jun 2012 00:29

from:

Ian Allen
 
Milton Keynes - United Kingdom

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I have started on Plan Y at long last, and because I am building all the junctions off site, ahead of the new building being constructed, the question has arisen on how we are to glue the track work down in the correct place on the "underlay" ? I have considered a diluted wallpaper paste solution, but am not sure if this would soak into the foam and make it go hard. Another option is carpet adhesive, but the problem there is would it allow for adjustment ?

Points are currently constructed on the templates with double sided adhesive tape to hold the sleepers in place.

So, as per the title, how do you stick yours ?

Ian

 

posted: 25 Jun 2012 08:51

from:

mike47j
 
 

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I guess it depends if you plan to remove the template or not ?

I use a low tack double sided tape to fix the timbers to the template. I then remove the template before using Evostik on every about every 5th timber, I think I read that on the C&L website. I know others have loosly pinned the timbers before using dilute copydex and the ballast to fix the track, removing the pins afterwards.

Mike Johnson


posted: 25 Jun 2012 12:15

from:

Nigel Brown
 
 

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Ian, I use double-sided tape for the lot. Where positioning is critical I sometimes use Peco track pins through sleepers to make sure the track stays in the right place; once painted it doesn't show.

Cheers
Nigel

posted: 25 Jun 2012 13:19

from:

davelong
 
 

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It can also depend on what your underlay is? Is it cork, plywood or a type of foam? I've never built anything too big to warrant building my turnouts off baseboard, I know its what a lot of other people do and I have no beef with it. I prefer to spray mount all the templot templates straight on to my baseboards (plywood) top and I superglue sleepers to the templates, it'll soak through the paper too.

edit: sorry reread your comment about foam, copydex would probably be my first choice on foam.
Last edited on 25 Jun 2012 13:22 by davelong
posted: 25 Jun 2012 16:51

from:

Les G
 
 

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davelong wrote:
...sorry reread your comment about foam, copydex would probably be my first choice on foam....

But do beware,  make sure that all holes are pre drilled, or that the adhesive is kept away from where holes will be needed.  Copydex is a latex which forms a sheet surface bond between materials being glued, but which will be grabbed and reeled-in by a drill and thus be pulled out from under your carefully built track.

 regards, Les G 
Last edited on 25 Jun 2012 16:53 by Les G
posted: 16 Oct 2012 00:58

from:

Ian Allen
 
Milton Keynes - United Kingdom

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Update on this thread. We are going to use 3mm EPDM rubber sheet which can be purchased with one side having a self adhesive backing. The adhesive side will bond to the baseboards and I'll probably use aerosol carpet adhesive to stick the track down, with diluted latex adhesive used for ballasting. Two lengths of track on EPDM rubber and neoprene rubber were left outside for just over a week during the summer to assess durability to the elements, and neither the adhesive backed EPDM rubber or Neoprene rubber lifted and the carpet adhesive holding the track down didn't fail either.EPDM rubber has excellent resistance to fresh and sea water, oxidation, ultra violet, ozone, aging and weathering.

Ian

posted: 16 Oct 2012 10:47

from:

Howard
 
United Kingdom

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Where can you buy EPDM?
Howard.

posted: 16 Oct 2012 11:33

from:

Ian Allen
 
Milton Keynes - United Kingdom

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Hi Howard,

There are a number of sources, but we are going to purchase from RH Nuttall in Birmingham.

http://www.rhnuttall.co.uk/Welcome.html

I had a sample brochure from them and a strip of EPDM and one of Neoprene. EPDM is the firmer of the two. Some of the other types are either too soft or too firm, with some being almost solid.

Ian

posted: 16 Oct 2012 12:50

from:

MarkAustin
 
London - United Kingdom

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I'm not convinced by the use of flexible track underlay: if you are using loose, glued ballast, in my experince, the track sets rigid regardless of the underlay.

What are other people's experience in this?

posted: 16 Oct 2012 13:22

from:

Ian Allen
 
Milton Keynes - United Kingdom

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Mark,

Diluted Copydex/Latex adhesive stays flexible. I have a 1 metre test strip which after 7 or 8 months is still compliant. PVA is the worst offender for going solid.

Ian

posted: 16 Oct 2012 16:26

from:

Les G
 
 

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Ian Allen wrote:
Mark,

Diluted Copydex/Latex adhesive stays flexible. I have a 1 metre test strip which after 7 or 8 months is still compliant. PVA is the worst offender for going solid.

Ian

Hi Ian,

A couple of questions come to mind: What do you use to dilute copydex, and at roughly what proportions?  Does the dilution reduce the tendency for a drill to wind it up when drilling through it?

Les G 


posted: 17 Oct 2012 10:08

from:

Ian T
 
Greenlaw - United Kingdom

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Ian Allen wrote:
Mark,

Diluted Copydex/Latex adhesive stays flexible. I have a 1 metre test strip which after 7 or 8 months is still compliant. PVA is the worst offender for going solid.

Ian

That all depends on what PVA you are using. Woodwork PVA (Resin W etc) does go solid but if you use "School PVA" or "Craft PVA" these have a different formula and they seem to retain a bit of flexibility. Don't just take my word for it, Iain Rice and Norman Solomon seem to use it in great quantities!

Ian T.

posted: 17 Oct 2012 11:01

from:

Ian Allen
 
Milton Keynes - United Kingdom

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Hi Ian,

Admittedly, in the past I think the SR7mm Group has sourced PVA from Wickes or Homebase and I'll be making sure we don't make that mistake again :-)

Ian

posted: 18 Oct 2012 15:12

from:

richard_t
 
Nr. Spalding, South Holland - United Kingdom

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Hi

Water with either a drop of meths or washing up liquid to help it break the surface tension. Meths will leach colour from C&L ballast mind you. I've mixed it 50:50 and all was OK - but you do need to stir and add water in a sip at a time, otherwise you end up with a lump of copydex floating in the water...

Richard.


Les G wrote:

Ian Allen wrote:
Mark,

Diluted Copydex/Latex adhesive stays flexible. I have a 1 metre test strip which after 7 or 8 months is still compliant. PVA is the worst offender for going solid.

Ian

Hi Ian,

A couple of questions come to mind: What do you use to dilute copydex, and at roughly what proportions?  Does the dilution reduce the tendency for a drill to wind it up when drilling through it?

Les G 



posted: 3 Nov 2012 12:27

from:

Richard_Jones
 
Heswall - United Kingdom

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Ian T wrote:
That all depends on what PVA you are using. Woodwork PVA (Resin W etc) does go solid but if you use "School PVA" or "Craft PVA" these have a different formula and they seem to retain a bit of flexibility.
Hi,

So exactly which brand names of PVA would anyone recommend? 

cheers

Richard
Last edited on 3 Nov 2012 12:28 by Richard_Jones
posted: 4 Nov 2012 20:24

from:

Ian T
 
Greenlaw - United Kingdom

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Hobbycraft shops (http://www.hobbycraft.co.uk) sell School PVA or Craft PVA in half and one litre bottles for about £2 - £3. I think Norman Solomon uses B & Q mortar plasticiser PVA.

Ian T

posted: 5 Nov 2012 13:00

from:

Paulr1949
 
United Kingdom

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Ian Allen wrote:
Hi Howard,

There are a number of sources, but we are going to purchase from RH Nuttall in Birmingham.

http://www.rhnuttall.co.uk/Welcome.html

I had a sample brochure from them and a strip of EPDM and one of Neoprene. EPDM is the firmer of the two. Some of the other types are either too soft or too firm, with some being almost solid.

Ian


Ian

Could you give me an idea of how much you are buying and the unit cost please? The club layout with which I am involved needs quite a bit of underlay, although we currently have 2 or 3 sheets of the C&L foam.

thanks

Paul

posted: 5 Nov 2012 13:53

from:

Ian Allen
 
Milton Keynes - United Kingdom

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Hi Paul,

We're going to be purchasing about 20metres x 1metre, with the cost being @ £6.70 sqm for 3mm EPDM.

Ian

posted: 5 Nov 2012 16:28

from:

Paulr1949
 
United Kingdom

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Ian

Many thanks

Paul



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