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                 Track construction for P-32 live steam
     
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1st message | this message only posted: 25 Jun 2020 17:16
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from:
Igor Kurgan
Netherlands

 

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Hi all,
I am currently making some things that must resemble some pieces for the garden railway.
I think i figured out a way how to make frogs on a production type of way and good by using pvc sheet
The pvc used in the pictures is not the best material: foam pvc.(for cheap experimenting)
I ordered better plastic: uv resistant, hammer proof, extruded pvc sheet of 1 cm thick.
So those are a "training round".
The reason for fabricating frogs is that i can not bend the aluminium strips for the track good enough(to my satisfaction and true to the printed template).
So i was building a jig so i can make them in "production" in all sizes needed, and i need a lot.
For the "parking lot" in the shed alone, i would like to have 12! 3 way's. 
I am very interested in your opinion, thoughts, comments, hints, tips, tricks, ect.


As you can see there is no lead in.(Please don't pay any attention to "throat" that was for a other experimental frog, sorry about this mess)



To cut out the lead in it requires a lot more time, knife and a chisel, on the other side in am not completely satisfied with how it looks.


I draw some extra lines as a example, incl measurements, btw the depth for flange bearing is 2.5 mm



This is the end result until now. For the guard rail to look better, i will cut some more pvc away.
Those aluminium pieces are wasted aluminium, they will not be found at the garden railway.As you can see the throat width has enlarged also



The wing rails had to be adjusted by filing the corner off, for the fact that the corner of cut also had chanced.
But still matching very accurate to the printed templates.
Probably i have a long way ahead of me....


Any thought idea or comment is greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance, cheers


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2nd message | this message only posted: 25 Jun 2020 18:01
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from:
Martin Wynne
West Of The Severn, United Kingdom



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Please do not send requests for help direct to me via email or PM.

Post your questions on the forum where everyone can see them and add helpful replies.
Hi Igor,

Thanks for posting the details of your project. We don't have many constructional topics for Gauge 1 track, so I'm sure there will be a lot of interest.

Are your locomotives using battery power or live steam? Your PVC V-crossings (frogs) will be non-conductive, so that's quite a long dead section for the pickups to bridge.

The flare angles on the wing rail ends are quite important, otherwise there is a risk of wheel flanges hitting the end of the rail.

Cutting the V-crossings manually from solid PVC seems to be a lot of work. Do you have a 3D printer? This would seem to be a natural project for 3D printing. UV-resistant polymers are available, see for example:

 https://www.makershop3d.com/282-filament-outdoor-use

cheers,

Martin.

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3rd message | this message only posted: 25 Jun 2020 18:25
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from:
Rob Manchester
Manchester, United Kingdom



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Martin Wynne wrote: Hi Igor,

Cutting the V-crossings manually from solid PVC seems to be a lot of work. Do you have a 3D printer? This would seem to be a natural project for 3D printing.

cheers,

Martin.
Or even make use of a milling machine and make the frogs from aluminium if you don't need rail pickup ( or acrylic if you do ).

Rob

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4th message | this message only posted: 26 Jun 2020 15:51
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from:
Igor Kurgan
Netherlands

 

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Gentleman,
Thank you very much for your answers.
In short about where i am and what i have up til now:
Yes all locomotives will be live steam and battery operating.
I am still in the process of making tracks and have 2 "unfinished" locos. The Green arrow and a t3 loc.
But no rolling stock yet.
For simple track work ca 75 meters strait and some curves.
Thanks again Martin to show me that test for the curves, saved me a big disaster and redoing a lot of work. :thumb: :thumb: :thumb:
I have made jigs to make a lot of very good sleepers/ties very fast and accurate, probably 8500/9000 pieces in 6 or 7 hours of time
Jigs for some curves (300 cm 320 cm and 200 cm radii) and strait ones, i am able to make, if i want: 25 to 30 meters a day for not even 1 euro per meter, incl wood and putty.Jigs for track are very easy to make, dont forget to mirror!
Learning some extra technical English related to this hobby :)

If it would be appreciated i can make some topics about what i have done and going to do.
Making sleepers/ties, making track, making frogs, making track bed, making loco's and wagons(rolling stock?) incl steam and electronics(incl testing and working with li ion!) involved?
Or even start a "project" topic?: From mud & scratch to RTR & live steam?  :cool:?
Yes i have a very clear idea what i want to achieve and build, but could use some help with designing/fine tuning some parts for the tracks.Sadly gauge 1 is a bit more expensive than n scale where it is doable to buy turnouts off the shelf and modify them.

I would like to avoid 3d printing as much as possible, it costs a lot more time with a 3d drawing program and 3d print a frog than make it by hand. Well by hand, not entirely, i use machines and jigs for it.
Saw zall/saber saw/reciprocating saw?, jig saw, table saw and a bench drill/drill press?
As a side note the 3d printer must print my locs and rolling stock
I am/was a master carpenter by trade for 30 years +, now i have a successful insulation business.

Martin wrote:
The flare angles on the wing rail ends are quite important, otherwise there is a risk of wheel flanges hitting the end of the rail.


This is the type of specific info i am very short of, i can copy things that i see but if i dont know why or how, a mistake is easy made, that is why i started this topic with a lot of picture's, to fine tune my frogs and get the best measurement/dimensions needed for the best performance.


Advice, comments, ideas and thoughts are very appreciated incl a far away catch and even stupid! ideas, it could bring me on a other idea, as long as it is serious.


Regarding machinery: when my old man past away we sold everything for metal working, lathe drills mills ect the whole lot....
To buy a milling machine for frogs alone and make them out of solid aluminium, it crossed my mind.
Those of proxxion or the chineesium are not really up to the job. 
Next in line mills have a price card of over 1000 euro's...not yet.
Probably i will save money for a good lathe to make some parts for live steam locomotives.

I could put my router into a jig but the smallest cutter i could find was 4mm in diameter, to big perhaps?

This is how i cut out the sections where the flanges are going in, with a guide to hold it into place.
For cutting depth i use the lines of the multiplex sheet, this is with the first saw blade.


The second saw blade i use is a much finer one with no corned teeth, just flat teeth and hand work
To cut out the slots for the aluminium strip and trim the edges i use a jig and my jig saw:

I can make a frog within 10 minutes with this method.
But would be the frog any good, that is troubling me, before i am going to cut up some good material for the bin or derail a expensive live steamer.
Please look for mistakes or improvements and tell me your thoughts and ideas about my frogs.
This is just "training" material in the picture not the hard uv resistant, hammer proof, extruded pvc.
For your convenience:





Yes i am dead serious about designing and making every part, i even made a table to calculate the expansion of aluminium strip with temperatures when i am going to lay them down

All the help/idea's/comments, i can get is really appreciated! this is not for a frog or ten or 50 meters of track.....

Thanks in advance, with best regards Igor Kurgan.

Ps sorry for my bad English, it is not my native language or what the teachers tried to learn me at school...that was global english and not English!

Cheers it is Friday:

Yes it is a experimental table and yes i still need to cut some putty away
Enjoy your free time have a good weekend.

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5th message | this message only posted: 26 Jun 2020 17:17
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from:
Phil O
Plymouth, United Kingdom



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Igor,

What are the dimensions of your rail?

Phil
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6th message | this message only posted: 26 Jun 2020 17:50
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from:
Igor Kurgan
Netherlands

 

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Phil O wrote: Igor, What are the dimensions of your rail? Phil2 mm thick 10 mm wide and as long as you want :DAll in between measurements are 44.8 mm, in the 2 meter radii curves are 45 mm in the 3 meter curves 44.8 mm Best Igor
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7th message | this message only posted: 26 Jun 2020 17:53
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from:
Igor Kurgan
Netherlands

 

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In my case max 125 cm long due to temperature expansion
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8th message | this message only posted: 26 Jun 2020 18:16
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from:
Phil O
Plymouth, United Kingdom



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Forgot to ask what crossing angles you are using? And do you have a decent vice engineering for preference?

It may be possible to manufacture proper V crossings, without to much difficulty.
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9th message | this message only posted: 27 Jun 2020 10:36
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from:
Igor Kurgan
Netherlands

 

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I have some vice's but i think you mean something like the vice in the picture?
The crossing angels are varying a lot, for some of them i could make ten in one go, becous some turn outs and crossings will be the same.


Thanks in advance, best.

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10th message | this message only posted: 27 Jun 2020 14:13
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from:
Phil O
Plymouth, United Kingdom



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Hi Igor,

Looks like it should be OK and you should be OK with making a bending jig, like the sketch.

Sorry it's a bit rough and ready, but it's the best I can manage with paint. It's in plan view, the rail is the orange bit and the black bits are the jig. The exact dimensions may be a bit of trial and error to suit the various crossing angles.

Before you start, you will need to anneal the rail in the area(s) to be bent, to do this you will need some carbolic soap, you rub this on the area(s) being annealed, once happy you heat the area with a blow torch, until the soap bubbles and turns black, as soon as this starts STOP! The rail should now bend without cracking. I used to make 90 degree bends in 3 mm thick aluminium sheet, most times it worked OK. Bend the rail a bit and check it against the template, until you are happy that you have the knuckle correct. If you are using flat bottom rail you will need to put slots in the jig to allow for the rail foot.

With rail sections that size I think you will need to secure the pieces together with stud bar, nuts and spacer blocks as per the prototype. I would recommend either non-ferrous or zinc plated securing components.

Hopefully Google Translate will help you make sense of what I have written.

Best of luck.

Phil



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11th message | this message only posted: 27 Jun 2020 17:36
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from:
Igor Kurgan
Netherlands

 

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Phil,

This had not crossed my mind yet, to make a jig like that in your drawing to bend the strip.
Some of my failed attempts was bending them in a vice.
A jig like your drawing could be easy made for my arbor press(500 kg).
I could control very precise bending the knuckle's.
This is actually a very good, interesting and very easy to execute idea. :thumb: :thumb:
One word: perfect.

I am sure i need to bold those strips together to form the frogs, the same way as i want to do with the guard/safety/check rails, probably the throw bars aswel.
The stud bars and bold's will be 3 mm in diameter, zinc plated, for spacers i intend to use brass pipe.
Some of my first experiments to make the frog from bend strip made that very clear.

The aluminium that i have does not need to be annealed, it does not crack when bend.
I thought cracking was to the high zinc content to harden up the alloy.
This aluminium type has no zinc, i can understand why there would be zinc in aluminium rails(zamac).
It is simply thinner and need to be stronger, the profile shape makes it also weak.
Due to the corrosion of zinc free aluminium it will "work harden" over time.

Don't worry, that what you wrote down was making perfect sense, i need to learn better technical English in general and specific technical English related to this subject tracks.

Thank you very much for your time and effort, i will update.
With best regards Igor


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12th message | this message only posted: 27 Jun 2020 19:29
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from:
Phil O
Plymouth, United Kingdom



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Igor,

Only to glad to help, sometimes a different pair of eyes can make all the difference.

I look forward to seeing your progress.

Phil.
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from:
Martin Wynne
West Of The Severn, United Kingdom



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Please do not send requests for help direct to me via email or PM.

Post your questions on the forum where everyone can see them and add helpful replies.
Hi Igor,

You may be interested in this topic:

 https://www.largescalecentral.com/forums/topic/27997/big-changes-at-staver-locomotive-for-spring-steamup

which is another live steam garden railway project in P-32 gauge, on a grand scale (16000 sq ft).

Like you they are building track from scratch, so you may find some useful ideas.



More recent info:

 http://staverlocomotive.com/

cheers,

Martin.

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14th message | this message only posted: 29 Jun 2020 05:50
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from:
Igor Kurgan
Netherlands

 

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Martin,
Thank you very much for the link. 

To speak frankly, that is the place where i got mine ideas from, incl Templot.  Basically i am copying that, but i have to work my way around welding( i am a disaster) and the cnc/milling part, i dont have those tools.
Even if i would had those tools i must learn a lot about the parts of turnouts and ect.


With best regards, Igor

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from:
Tom Allen
United Kingdom

 

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Igor, in the storage area have you thought of using a traverser instead of all those points
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16th message | this message only posted: 30 Jun 2020 17:53
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from:
Igor Kurgan
Netherlands

 

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I did not even know what a  traverser was up til now!Good looking idea, but i am afraid not for me, i would like to drive in and out the loco with rolling stock, sorry.(have some fantasy about the aa20 and my great grandfathers loco 6300 series dutch)
But great thought! :thumb: learned something new yesterday and today.
There are not much videos about that subject, but enough to give me an idea.
Thank you!


@ Phil,
I am sorry to report after some days of thinking and experimenting, bolting the strips together is a tad to much, in m3 it is not going to work, sorry.
It is to big for 1:32 scale and 2 mm rods are not affordable.
Screwing it AL together...(keep on reading( was not a success either, sorry, but i tried really!))
The "bending machine" wont let go of me, i think in the next couple of days i will try to bend the strips according to templots drawing, without tension left on the aluminium strip and cut the slots in the sleepers/ties, so i can glue the strips solid into the ties/sleepers with putty(Ploy max high tack)
It would be a very nice view..better than staverns....but only if it succeeds!
If it is not going to succeed, i will have to go back to the pre cut frogs.
Speaking of pre cut frog, how ever i can not seem to figure out a way to go around the "point" in the frog.
Welding is not for me( i am a true disaster), bending and swaging the point can be done but does not give me the result i would like? that would work.
Thursday (day after tomorrow)i will post some pictures of My frogs and what i mean, sorry my English is not so good.
But i really need to get a good working frog...good looking or not, in my main line that is, a Ariosto live steamer...falling...nightmare fuel, or own build.

I really hope i can count on your support and knowledge, cous i am designing from scratch and have knowledge next to nothing.

Thanks in advance for reading, support, hints, tips, ideas and comments, they are very welcome!
Best Igor

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17th message | this message only posted: 30 Jun 2020 18:41
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from:
Igor Kurgan
Netherlands

 

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This was a experiment with cutting the strips to form a point, as you can see a big no, bolting could be a solution, but m3 is just to big and m2 is way to expensive(metric btw, sorry)

Swaged point of the frog(swagging is metal forming with pressure without heat)

Wrong pic sorry: This turnout was subject to several experiments!

A better close up for the point forming with swaging the strip.


Those where my swaging experiments, the casting experiments where a moderate success, but the mold making is consuming to much time, more time then it would take to melt the alloy.
For 20+  different frogs i don't think casting is the way to go.
Btw the turnout's in the picture's where subject to different experiments, so that is the reason that some rial/strip is really not strait.(yes: read mistreated) but it was to succeed in frog making.

Thanks for reading and sharing your thoughts, btw there are some pictures of a pre cut frog in the beginning of this post, not the perfect material was used and not the perfect execution, i am working on that, with your help to improve.
Again: day after tomorrow i will try to post a picture of a good frog with good lead in, safety rail and made of good material.

With best regards, Igor

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from:
Igor Kurgan
Netherlands

 

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I really hope i can count on your support and knowledge, cous i am designing from scratch and have knowledge next to nothing.

Thanks in advance for reading, support, hints, tips, ideas and comments, they are very welcome!
Best Igor
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from:
Phil O
Plymouth, United Kingdom



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Igor,

The only way I could weld aluminium was with a TIG, tungsten inert gas welding gear, with Argon as the gas shield, not a cheap option.

Sorry to hear that the bolting bits together, is a no, no.

Your efforts don't look too bad and if your rolling stock runs through it ok and your happy with the results,  you can't wish for more.

Turnout building is never very quick and the larger the scale the longer it takes.

Cheers

Phil.
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from:
Tom Allen
United Kingdom

 

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Igor Kurgan wrote: I did not even know what a  traverser was up til now!Good looking idea, but i am afraid not for me, i would like to drive in and out the loco with rolling stock, sorry.(have some fantasy about the aa20 and my great grandfathers loco 6300 series dutch)
But great thought! :thumb: learned something new yesterday and today.
There are not much videos about that subject, but enough to give me an idea.
Thank you!



You can run locos around by having a small road at one end of the traverser to store the loco, then send the loco back up an empty road to the front, if that's what you mean. Or if you mean running through the traverser just put it in the running line, it doesn't have to be a dead end.
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21st message | this message only posted: 3 Jul 2020 18:12
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from:
Igor Kurgan
Netherlands

 

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Tom, thank you for your replay,I have this idea for this piece of garden, look at the box file.
This will be the most important piece of the whole garden railroad, incl the "storage shed".;
The most important part!!!!
The storage shed is not so big, i made the box file with one side 3 ways and the other side "normal turnouts".
The 3 ways will give me more storage length than normal turnouts, that's why i was fascinated by your idea.But both sides will be 3 ways, sorry.
I even thought about that "circle" to park my stuff.

But to store complete train sets the traverser would be not fitting into my plan.
The big boy, aa20, eerie (9999)and other big ones needs to much rolling stock to make this function properly. the T3's and my great grandfathers loco (6300 series)could use this?, i am afraid it would be to small.
Outside this "storage shed" you can see the "idea" that i would like to build.
Those are the 4 "main lines" for the big ones, they run only on the outside of my garden.

The box file is JUST A impression of what i am building, some pieces of strait track can be one(1) meter longer or shorter, curves are what i am going to build in radii!

For all: i hope (now)you understand my fuss about frog making, but clearly i over complicate the frog?
Results of the new type of frog will be posted.(hopefully tomorrow by this time)

Thanks for all your ideas comments patience and replays.






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22nd message | this message only posted: 3 Jul 2020 18:22
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from:
Igor Kurgan
Netherlands

 

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Phil O wrote: Igor,

The only way I could weld aluminium was with a TIG, tungsten inert gas welding gear, with Argon as the gas shield, not a cheap option.
I have all this stuff, somehow i dont have the feeling for it.
Sorry to hear that the bolting bits together, is a no, no.
It is a great idea, but the scale is just to small, i was really into it, but the scale....

Your efforts don't look too bad and if your rolling stock runs through it ok and your happy with the results,  you can't wish for more. 
They will run through it? yes!, the results are looking very good! Could it be better.? yes, i think it could be better.
Turnout building is never very quick and the larger the scale the longer it takes. 
I will take my time that is needed, thanks for this thought, keeps me going! to build. i realize this is NOT h0 or n gauge.
Cheers

Phil.
Cheers Igor K
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from:
Tom Allen
United Kingdom

 

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i'm guessing a bit here, the rectangle of track in the sort of middle is the shed. So i've put a traverser in the shed for you. It's just a sliding table with track on it that can be positioned by hand or motorised and can be as long or short as you like, with as many roads as you wish (as long as it will allow the movement of the traverser).I have an eight road three metre long traverser on my layout which is computer controlled.

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from:
Igor Kurgan
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Well, as promised, some picture's of my proto type frog, made from hammer proof, uv resistant, extruded pvc.It is easy to make, lead ins are taking care of, the throat is 2 mm, flange bearing(2 mm for aristo) and including safety/check rails plus accurate to templot's giving drawings as you can see.


There is room for improvement regarding sawing, the guidance could be better.









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from:
Igor Kurgan
Netherlands

 

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Tom Allen wrote: i'm guessing a bit here, the rectangle of track in the sort of middle is the shed. So i've put a traverser in the shed for you. It's just a sliding table with track on it that can be positioned by hand or motorised and can be as long or short as you like, with as many roads as you wish (as long as it will allow the movement of the traverser).I have an eight road three metre long traverser on my layout which is computer controlled.
Your guess is correct, the rectangle of track in the sort is my shed.
I like the idea of the traverser, but not in this shed.
I also like your thinking about those two extra turnouts that would make the other turnouts obsolete, to enter the shed.
But what you could not know and this is part of the problem: 
1: The shed's floor is 4 foot/1 meter 20 lower than the grass.(all track will be 6 inch/15 cm higher than the grass level.)
2: At the left side(from drawing) is a very big brick bbq and a fire place, i will be able to drill a hole for two tracks to the back to line up with the other tracks, under the bbq before the walls of the fire place.
3: The entrance at the right side of the drawing, it is in the middle with "stairs" and some tree's.
Basically i am stuck with my original in and out of my tracks at the entrance side.

I hope you will follow this thread, it will be a long one.

Thanks


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26th message | this message only posted: 4 Jul 2020 22:17
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from:
Tom Allen
United Kingdom

 

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are you trying to store a whole length train or just locos
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27th message | this message only posted: 5 Jul 2020 17:38
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from:
Igor Kurgan
Netherlands

 

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Whole length of train.

The real expensive loco's will go inside the house(big boy on live steam for an example!)
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28th message | this message only posted: 5 Jul 2020 17:43
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from:
Igor Kurgan
Netherlands

 

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Other angle:


The result is going to be very neat, but i must make a thread on the build, incl frog making and the other organs of the turn outs, and a tread on ties/sleepers making, quick easy and accurate.

With best regards, Igor Kurgan

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29th message | this message only posted: 5 Jul 2020 20:03
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from:
Tom Allen
United Kingdom

 

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one other possibility, a vertical traverser
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30th message | this message only posted: 7 Jul 2020 09:47
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from:
Igor Kurgan
Netherlands

 

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It needs a little bit of further tweaking, BUT the test wagon and loco did not derail or serious flange butting.
Things to improve:
Smaller spout to my putty tool.
Have to reinforce the guard rails from the bottom, to make a more solid u.
Pay a bit more attention to the safety rails into the frog, to file the edges off.
Make the gap in the points from the closure rail longer, 4 inch is just to short.
Adjust some ties/sleepers for sliding plates under the points.
Spacing in between sleepers and where to place them.
Make the curves toward the strait track, i thought this was simpler, nope.
I am never going to use fir wood again, i don't like the grain! Only Azobe from now on.
Total: 22 hours of work(incl cutting and slotting the sleepers) and 20 meters of aluminium strip.
Total costs: 9.50 euro incl putty, i am really impressed.
Wood was free fire wood.
Those 3 way's are for in the shed not outside.
1 down 5 to go.
When i am going to build the next one i will make a decent tutorial of it, incl mechanics.

With best regards Igor

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from:
Phil O
Plymouth, United Kingdom



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Igor,

Looking good, it flows nicely. You just need to trim the timber ends in one or two places.

Cheers

Phil.
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from:
roythebus
Aldington Frith, Ashford, Kent, United Kingdom

 

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Are you using any sort of gauge for the flangeway gaps on the frogs and wing rails? It appears from some of the pictures the rails on the frogs don't quite line up, this will give you rough running and maybe derailments.

I suggest you make yourself a flangeway gap tool for the frogs and another gauge for the frog to wing rail. You could make these from wood if you want, but maybe from strip aluminium if you want.
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33rd message | this message only posted: 11 Sep 2020 17:01
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from:
Igor Kurgan
Netherlands

 

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@ roythebus Sorry for my late replay, did not mean to be impolite, but i would like to have the building of my house done before Christmas :cool: especially the insulation, new windows and new roof, i hope you understand. 
And planning a marriage is also very time consuming, 2 November......plus a own company, but hey this is live :thumb: love every bit of it. 

I was thinking about making some of those but i did not really see the need for it, cous i am working with fixed jigs? 
I think now that i am pretty wrong on this? 
The lineament is what i think due to the fact that my cutting work on the frogs must be improved. 
Some of the rail that is going into the frogs is reworked with a file to prevent any flange bumps. 
I toke off/filed back the upper corners for a smother transition and better lining. 
Your note is grandly taken on this, if you have some suggestions about the flange-way gap tool or the gauge tool it would be very appreciated, i would make them from aluminium. 
Thanks for pointing this out. 

What PhilO also pointed out is the bending of the rail, it is going to be done in some fixed jigs into the arbor press. 
I think with what PhilO said it would take one problem away you mentioned about the wing rail If i have the proper piece in my mind! I think i misplaced it with the check/guard rail. 

Thanks for your thoughts and reading. Cheers

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34th message | this message only posted: 11 Sep 2020 18:11
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from:
Igor Kurgan
Netherlands

 

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Thinking out loud, i hope the link will work.

http://www.norgrove.me.uk/pointsimages/checks-2.jpg
Something like this would be very handy yes or cutting some slots at the right distances in a piece of alu strip.

To make sure that there is clearance enough between the wing rail and the check rail.
But if you would keep to the drawing of templot like i do (up side down build, mirror image printed) then it must be oke.
Only regarding the check rails and half of the wing rails, the other half of the wing rail is incorporated into the frog in my (stavers) design.
Back to your point.
I think i understand your point, yes i need to do better on those frogs especially the "vee" if i have it all anatomical correct in railway slang/talk/parts.

I will look tomorrow with a close eye over the frogs from the three way switches.
At this point i can only test if the frog is in line with the other rails by putting a strait piece of "track" in it that would act like a long flange.
But it does not give the accurate dimensions/measurement for checking there distance or clearance.
My caliper can tell me a lot, would that not be a option? Or a simple 4 wheel boogie?
Or did i missed your point completely?

Thanks for reading and sharing your knowledge,
Best Igor
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35th message | this message only posted: 11 Sep 2020 20:50
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from:
Martin Wynne
West Of The Severn, United Kingdom



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Please do not send requests for help direct to me via email or PM.

Post your questions on the forum where everyone can see them and add helpful replies.
Hi Igor,

You can see the dimensions for each track gauge setting in the Templot gauge list:



For your P-32 gauge, the flangeway gap is 1.5mm, which means the check gauge (from the V-crossing to the check rail) is 43.5mm.

That flangeway is very close to being exactly to scale from the prototype, and P-32 is intended for hand-built locomotives with narrow lathe-turned wheels.

I suspect that 1.5mm is too narrow for commercial and live-steam Gauge 1 models. You should probably be using 1C or 1F instead, with wider flangeways, for those models. But I don't know for sure as I know little about Gauge 1.

Are you a member of the G1MRA? They could advise you about all this:

 https://www.g1mra.com

They have a list of track standard dimensions at:

 https://www.g1mra.com/pdf/standard-dimensions-for-gauge1.pdf

For normal use they are suggesting 1C with 3.0mm flangeways.

For a diagram of how wheels and track are dimensioned, see:

 https://00-sf.org.uk/dimensions.php

The actual dimensions given there are for smaller-scale models, but the diagram and explanations are the same for all.

cheers,

Martin.

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36th message | this message only posted: 15 Sep 2020 16:45
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from:
Igor Kurgan
Netherlands

 

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:thumb:What else can i say?

:thumb:I was planning to for f1,but something is keeping me away, especially that i am going to build my own locos

Thanks and cheers

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